Mount Alberta - East Face

Mount Alberta is usually the hardest entry for peak baggers trying to get all 11,000ft mountains of the Canadian Rockies, as there are no easy routes to the summit. The East Face is home to what passes for a normal route, the Japanese Couloir (line 2), which saw the first ascent of the mountain by one of the very first international expeditions by Japanese climbers. Though it sees the most traffic of any route on Mount Alberta and is never desperately difficult, it is still a long, sustained and serious endeavour!

There are three posters of Mount Alberta, see also the North and West Faces.

Free download link - medium resolution, personal use only (no printing allowed)

Route List

1: South Ridge of Mount Massey, F, A. Ostheimer, H. Fuhrer, 06/1927
2: Japanese Couloir (Normal-ish Route), D 5.6, S. Hashimoto, M. Hatano, T. Hayakawa, Y. Maki, Y. Mita, N. Okabe, H. Fuhrer, H. Kohler, J. Weber, 07/1925
3: Northeast Ridge, TD+ 5.10-, K. Swigert, S. Tenney, 08/1984
4: East Ridge of Mount Palmer, F, G. Harr, J. Mendenhall, R. Mendenhall, G. Roberts, R. van Aken, 07/1953

Sources and Credits

• “The Climbers Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada, Volume III: Rockies West,” David P. Jones, Thin Gruel Press, 2018
  
• “The Bold and the Cold,” Brandon Pullan, Rocky Mountain Books, 2016
  
• “Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies,” Sean Dougherty, Rocky Mountain Books, 2008
  
• “Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering,” Chic Scott, Rocky Mountain Books, 2000
  
• “Fifty Classic Climbs,” Steve Roper, Allen Steck, Sierra Club Books, 1979
  
• “My Alberta,” Everett Fee, Canadian Alpine Journal, 2004