Castleton Tower - North Face

If the South Face is home to the famous Kor-Ingalls, the North Face of Castleton has two ultra-classics: the North Face (and its three variations to P1, lines 3, 4 and 6), and the easiest way up the tower, the North Chimney (line 2). Also mostly visible on this image is the new 5.13b test piece, The Ivory Tower (line 1).

If you want the wet version of this, have a look at the Old Man of Hoy. There is also a poster of the South Face, featuring the ultra-classic Kor-Ingalls route.

Download: Medium resolution, personal use only

Route List

1: The Ivory Tower, 5.13b, S. Lightner, C. Kalous, 10/2012
2: North Chimney, 5.9, D. Burgette, A. Erickson, 04/1970
3: North Face, Webster variation, 5.11a, E. Webster, B. Norden, 05/1979
4: Lella-Rotert variation, 5.11a, B. Lella, B. Rotert, 1980
5: Sacred Ground, 5.12b, J. Smith, 1994
6: North Face, original start, 5.11b, J. Dunn, D. Snively, 03/1974/P. Turecki, N. Pfeiffer, 1988
7: Sun, Moon, and Stars, 5.11d A3+, J. Beyer, P. McInerny, 10/1993

Sources

• “Moab Climbs: High on Moab,” Karl Kelley, Sharp End Publishing, 2017

• “Desert Rock III: Moab to Colorado National Monument,” Eric Bjørnstad, Chockstone, 1999

• “Desert Towers: Fat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock,” Steve Crusher Bartlett, Sharp End Publishing, 2010

• “Selected Climbs in the Desert Southwest, Colorado and Utah,” Cameron M. Burns, The Mountaineers, 1999

• Mountain Project

Updates

Jul 1, 2024: Initial version.

Mar 9, 2026: Minor graphic update

Apr 26, 2026: Caption update