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Trollveggen (The Troll Wall)

Trollveggen (The Troll Wall)

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The tallest rock face in Europe, as well as probably the one with the worst rock, the Troll Wall (Trollveggen in Norwegian) stands proud near the small town of Åndalsnes in the Romsdal valley. Not only is it over 1,000m high, but it is also very, very steep: the top overhangs its base by up to 50 meters!

 

With the promise of a serious adventure without having to travel to the greater ranges, the wall has a long climbing history. Its first ascent, in 1968, saw Norwegian and English teams racing to the top in different parts of the wall, with the locals finishing a day earlier. Since then, the name of the game has been hard aid, scary free climbing and, increasingly, winter ascents due to the endless rockfall.

 

This image shows all known aid and free routes, as well as routes on the neighboring Semletind, Trollryggen and Brudgommen, including the famous East Pillar Trilogy. There is even a ski descent: route 29, Fiva, by Kilian Jornet in 2018.

Route List

1: Østpilaren (East Pillar), Semletind, AD 5b, Gartside, Holt, Howard, Tweedale, 1967

2: Venstrehåndsdiedrene (Lefthand Dihedrals), TD 6b, Eskell, Wilmott, 1969/Doseth, Martinsen, 1978

3: Østpilaren, Direkte Utsteg (East Pillar, Direct Exit), TD 6b, Bø, Nebell, 1993

4: Høyrehåndsdiedrene (Righthand Dihedrals), TD+ 6c, Lund, Pinsli, 1989

5: Gammelt Nytt (The Old New), TD- 6a+, Bø, Næss, Nøst, 1996

6: Amatt-Baillie, ED 6a A4, Amatt, Baillie, 1967

7: Kjempekaminen (The Great Chimney), Becik, Bozik, Odstrcil, 1985

8: Originalruta (Original Route), AD 4c, Eikrem, Heen, Svendsås, 1963

9: Bivuakk Blues (Bivouac Blues), Glejdura, Jasko, 1988

10: Minneruta (Memory Route), ED 6a A4, Bakos, Orolin, Petric, Soldan, 1974

11: Østpilaren (East Pillar), Trollryggen, TD 6b, Heen, Høibakk, 1958

12: Suser gjennom Harryland (Whizzing through Harryland), ED- 6a+ A3, Hagen, Østbø, 1996

13: Baltika, ED- 6a+ A3+, Odintsov, Potankin, 1997

14: Norskeruta (Norwegian Route), TD+ 6a, Eliassen, Enersen, Patterson, Teigland, 1965/Janecka, Just, Krizan, Pochyly, 1986

15: Krasnoyarsk, ED+ 6a A4+/6c+, Arhipov, Cherezov, Dmitzienko, Khovstenko, Pugovkine, Zakharov, 2002/Sæther, Sæther, 2012

16: Franskeruta (French Route), ED 6a A4/7a+, Boussard, Brunet, Cordier, Deck, Frehel, 1967/Sæther, Sæther, 2010

17: Russeruta (Russian Route), ED+ 6b A4, Koshelenko, Ruchkin, 1997

18: Katharsis, ED+ A4 M7, Raganowicz, Tomaszewski, 2015

19: Arch Wall, ED+ 6b A4+/7a+, Drummond, Drummond, 1972/Sæther, Sæther, 2010

20: Trolldom (Troll Magic), ED 6b+ A3, Magnussen, Vadla, 1985

21: El Camí dels Somnis (Sleepwalker Route), ED 6a A3, Castellvi, Grau, Porta, 1986

22: Svenskeruta (Swedish Route), ED 6c, Johansson, Nilsson, 1978/Bancroft, Brooks, Doseth, 1980

23: Rimmon/English Route, ED- 6b, Amatt, Howard, Tweedale, 1965/Amundsen, Doseth, 1979

24: Raspberry Dream, ED+ 7b, Fujiwara, Nakashima, Shibuya, 1986/Aastorp, Klemetzen, Vadla, 1987

25: Trollkjerringruta (The Old Troll Lady Route), ED 6c+, Brooks, Doseth, Nesheim, Nesheim, 1982/Doseth, Fujiwara, 1983

26: Död åt Alla Prektige Blonde Vikinger (Death to All Pretty Blond Vikings), ED+ A4, Aastorp, Bårdsnes, Pedersen, Vadla, 1986

27: Crack’n Dutch, ED- 6a+, van der Meulen, von Schulz, 1985

28: Østpilaren (East Pillar), Brudgommen, TD+ 6a+, Glogoczowski, Kozlowski, Paulo, 1968

29: Fivaruta (Fiva Route), AD 4b/5.5 60°, Heen, Heen, 1931/Jornet, 2018

Updates

Nov 29, 2023: Fixed a wrong number (18 instead of 19) on the top section of the image.

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