Tahquitz Rock

The birth place of modern trad climbing, and of the incorrectly named Yosemite Decimal System, Tahquitz Rock above the small town of Idyllwild holds a very special place in American climbing history. With easy access, great granite and a huge variety of moderate (and a few definitely not moderate) multipitch routes, from 5.0 to 5.13, it has schooled generations of climbers.

Special thanks goes to local guide and guidebook author Bob Gaines for all his help on this poster!

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Route List

1: The Y Crack, 5.10b, Wilson et al., 1975
2: The Green Rosetta, 5.11c, Lechlinski et al., 1982
3: Northeast Rib, 5.0, Mendenhall, Mendenhall, 1940
4: My Pink Half of the Drainpipe, 5.10b, Lennard, Vogel, 1977
5: Lik’en to Lichen, 5.10b, Cole, Evans, Vogel, 1981
6: Bitchin Lichen, 5.10c, Cole, Lewis, 1987
7: Northeast Farce, 5.3, Gallwas, Wilson, 1954
8: El Whampo, 5.7, Coats, McLean, Reynolds, Ross, 1964
9: El Grandote, 5.9, Chouinard, Daley, 1961/Herbert, Kamps, 1963
10: El Dorado, 5.10a R, Coats, Higgins, 1963
11: El Monte, 5.10b, Zeil et al., 1979
12: Northeast Face East, 5.6, Robbins, Wilson, 1954
13: Grace Slick, 5.10b, Wegener, Wilkening, Wilson, 1975
14: Northeast Face West, 5.6, Wilts, Wilts
15: Too Biased, 5.9, Beck, McCoy, 1993
16: Toe Bias, 5.9 R, Couch, Higgins, Kamps, 1966
17: East Lark, 5.5, Harr, Tory, Wilts, Wilts, 1950
18: Hard Lark, 5.7, Berry, Williams, 1966
19: West Lark, 5.5, Dixon, Gorin, Hudson, Wilts, 1954
20: The Uneventful, 5.5, Butler, Chouinard, Daley, Doody, 1959
21: North Buttress, 5.7, Smith, Wilson, 1952
22: The Souvenir, 5.10d, Gaines, Peterson, 1995
23: Sahara Terror, 5.7, Flinchbaugh, Gorin, Shand, 1942/Austin, Pabst, 1954
24: Three Hour Tour, 5.10d, Gaines, Peterson, 1994
25: Magical Mystery Tour, 5.11c R, Cox, Evans, Graham, Sorenson, Wilson, 1973/Cox, Hensel, 1976
26: The Incision, 5.11c, Gaines, Jacobs, 1992
27: Edgehogs, 5.10d, Gaines, Peterson, 1998
28: Whodunit, 5.9, Fitschen, Robbins, 1957/Higgins, Kamps, 1966
29: The Gulp, 5.9, Gerhard, Ross, 1965
30: The Swallow Direct, 5.10a, Robbins, Wilts, 1952
31: Constellation, 5.12a/b, Gaines, Peterson, 1990
32: The Consolation Direct, 5.9, Mendenhall, Wilts, 1953/Herbert, Robbins, 1959
33: The Sham (free variation), 5.11c/d R, Leichtfus, Powell, 1983
34: Farewell Horizontal, 5.10b, Beck, Escher, 1998
35: The Sting, 5.11b/c, Bentwood, Gaines, 1999
36: Wong Climb, 5.8, Coats, Higgins, Molner, 1963
37: Special K, 5.10d R, Bentwood, Gaines, 1999
38: The Long Climb (Original Start), 5.8, Robbins, Wilson, 1952
39: The Z Crack, 5.10c, Battey, Cole, Evans, Floyd, Fry, 1985
40: The Illegitimate, 5.9, Herbert, Robbins, 1959
41: Zeno’s Paradox, 5.10d, Lennard, Robbins, 1978
42: White Maiden’s Walkway, 5.4, Johnson, Smith, 1937
43: Heimlich Maneuver, 5.10d, Battey, Binding, Evans, Floyd, 1990
44: Chronic Dislocater, 5.11a/b, Battey, Evans, 1990
45: Bodacious, 5.10c/d, Battey, Evans, Floyd, 1990
46: The 5.7 Arete, 5.10b R, Cole, Evans, Floyd, Gordon, 1986
47: Le Toit Direct, 5.8
48: Slapstick, 5.12b, Mayville, 1999
49: Standup Flake, 5.9
50: Cause for Alarm, 5.11b, Angione, Evans, 1989
51: Man Bites Dog, 5.10c R, Cole, Schweizer, Vogel, 1985
52: Dog Bites Man, 5.10c, Cole, Evans, Fry, 1985
53: The Step, 5.10a, Gallwas, Robbins, 1957/Herbert, Robbins, 1959
54: Pooper Scooper, 5.11c, Bartlett, Black, 1972/Lanman, Roed
55: Le Toit, 5.12a R, Chouinard, Frost, Herbert, 1960/Accomazzo, Long, 1973
56: Le Toitlette, 5.11c, Cole, Fry, 1985
57: Super Pooper, 5.10a, Mendenhall, Mendenhall, Wilson, Wilts, 1952/Kamps, Powell, 1967
58: The Price of Fear, 5.10c, McKinny, Prodanovich, 1969/Cox, Sorenson, 1972
59: The Flakes, 5.11c, Robbins, Wilson, 1953/Antel, Harrison, Long, Sorenson, 1973
60: Stairway to Heaven, 5.12a/b, Black, Graber, Hamburg, 1973/Gaines, Long, 1984
61: Happy Hooker, 5.10 A4-, Borello, Gaines, 1994
62: Pharaoh, 5.12, Hill, Long, 1983
63: Vampire Direct Start, 5.10d
64: Vampire Direct Finish, 5.10c R, Sorenson, 1970s
65: The Vampire, 5.11a, Rearick, Robbins, 1959/Accomazzo, Antel, Graham, Long, 1973
66: The Bat, 5.11b R, Gaines, Gaines, 1987
67: Field of Dreams, 5.11b, Gaines, Peterson, 1996
68: The Crucifix, 5.11b, Gaines, Romero, 1995
69: Chin Strap Crack, 5.10c R, Harrell, Raymond, 1966
70: The Passover, 5.10d, Coats, Higgins, Kamps, 1964/Accomazzo, Sorenson, 1973
71: Ziggy Stardust, 5.10c, Wilkening, Wilson, 1975
72: Lower Royal’s Arch, 5.10d, Robbins, Wilson, Wilts, 1952/Accomazzo, Sorenson, 1973
73: Upper Royal’s Arch, 5.8, Gallwas, Robbins, Wilts, 1953
74: Piton Pooper, 5.7+, Brinton, Johnson, 1936/Austin, Wilts, Wilts, 1949
75: Gallwas Gallop, 5.9+, Gallwas, Robbins, Wilts, 1953
76: The Trough, 5.4, Brinton, Jasaitis, Smith, 1936
77: The Rack, 5.10a, Kamps, Powell, Powell, 1961
78: Legends of the Fall, 5.10c PG, Bentwood, Gaines, Vaught, 2009
78: The Jam Crack, 5.8, Robbins, Wilson, 1959
80: Sweedish Variation, 5.10d TR, Gaines, Jewlet, 2004
81: Manwich, 5.11a, Ayers, Fry, Marshall, 1986
82: Dave’s Deviation, 5.9 R, Frost, Robbins, 1960
83: Poker Face, 5.12a, Gaines, Mayville, 1993
84: Scar Face, 5.11d, Cole, Gaines, 1985
85: Devil’s Delight, 5.10b R, Powell, Powell, 1966
86: Cutter, 5.11b/c, Gaines, Mayville, 1993
87: The Blank, 5.10a, Gallwas, Robbins, 1954/Frost, Kamps, 1960
88: Jonah, 5.10c, Coats, Cohen, Higgins, 1964
89: Angel’s Fright, 5.6, Rice, Smith, 1936
90: Stage Fright, 5.11b, Lanman, Lanman, Roed, Thomson, 2007
91: Fright Night, 5.12a, Cole, Mayr, 1991
92: Human Fright, 5.10a, Mendenhall, Robbins, 1952/Kamps, 1963
93: Mr. Slate, 5.10d R, Gaines, Peterson, 1996
94: Fred, 5.11a, Cole, Vogel, 1981
95: The Great Gazoo, 5.12b, Murphy, Sartin, 2007
96: Twinkle Toes, 5.11d, Murphy, Sartin, 2008
97: Switchbacks, 5.8 R, Gallwas, Lilley, 1953
98: Betty, 5.9+, Gaines, 1994
99: Dino, 5.10c, Carmichael, Gaines, 1994
100: The Quarry, 5.11c, Borrello, Gaines, 1993
101: Blanketty Blank, 5.10c, Daley, Frost, 1977/Higgins, Kamps, 1963
102: Pebbles, 5.11c, Gaines, 1994
103: Wilma, 5.11c R, Cole, Raker, Vogel, 1983
104: Bedrock, 5.11a, Gaines, Gordon, Peterson, 1997
105: The Slab, 5.8, Daley, McCelland, 1958/Herbert, Kamps, 1963
106: Point Blank, 5.12b, Gaines, 1998
107: Crimes of Passion Direct, 5.11b, Gaines, Gaines, 1987
108: Fingertrip, 5.7, Gillespie, Rosenblatt, Wilts, 1946
109: Fingertip Traverse, 5.3, Brinton, Johnson, Rice, Smith, 1936
110: Dos Equis, 5.11a, Albert, Gaines, 1986
111: Pigs in Bondage, 5.10a, Allen, Roberts, 1985
112: El Camino Real, 5.10a, Daley, Robbins, Taylor, 1961
113: Jensen’s Jaunt, 5.6, Jensen, McDonald, Smith, 1938
114: The Hangover, 5.12c, Gallwas, Martin, Robbins, Sherrick, 1954/Accomazzo, Lechlinski, Long, Muir, 1978
115: No Free Lunches, 5.10d, Lanman, Lanman, Roed, Thomson, 2007
116: Chimney Route, 5.7
117: Freelove, 5.11b, Barry et al., 1993

Sources

• “Rock Climbing, Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks, 3rd Edition,” Randy Vogel, Bob Gaines, Falcon, 2001

• “Best Climbs, Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks,” Bob Gaines, Falcon, 2013

• Bob Gaines

• Ben Crowell

• Jordan Ramey

• Cory Furrow

• Mountain Project

Updates

Oct 6, 2021: First version published.

May 3, 2024: Graphic design update

Sept 24, 2024: Complete overhaul of the base image to improve quality