Tahquitz Rock

The birth place of modern trad climbing, and of the incorrectly named Yosemite Decimal System, Tahquitz Rock above the small town of Idyllwild holds a very special place in American climbing history. With easy access, great granite and a huge variety of moderate (and a few definitely not moderate) multipitch routes, from 5.0 to 5.13, it has schooled generations of climbers.

 

Special thanks goes to local guide and guidebook author Bob Gaines for all his help on this poster!

Route List

1: The Y Crack, 5.10b, Wilson et al., 1975

2: The Green Rosetta, 5.11c, Lechlinski et al., 1982

3: Northeast Rib, 5.0, Mendenhall, Mendenhall, 1940

4: My Pink Half of the Drainpipe, 5.10b, Lennard, Vogel, 1977

5: Lik’en to Lichen, 5.10b, Cole, Evans, Vogel, 1981

6: Bitchin Lichen, 5.10c, Cole, Lewis, 1987

7: Northeast Farce, 5.3, Gallwas, Wilson, 1954

8: El Grandote, 5.9, Chouinard, Daley, 1961/Herbert, Kamps, 1963

9: El Dorado, 5.10a R, Coats, Higgins, 1963

10: El Monte, 5.10b, Zeil et al., 1979

11: Northeast Face East, 5.6, Robbins, Wilson, 1954

12: Grace Slick, 5.10b, Wegener, Wilkening, Wilson, 1975

13: Northeast Face West, 5.6, Wilts, Wilts

14: Too Biased, 5.9, Beck, McCoy, 1993

15: Toe Bias, 5.9 R, Couch, Higgins, Kamps, 1966

16: West Lark, 5.5, Dixon, Gorin, Hudson, Wilts, 1954

17: Hard Lark, 5.7, Berry, Williams, 1966

18: East Lark, 5.5, Harr, Tory, Wilts, Wilts, 1950

19: The Uneventful, 5.5, Butler, Chouinard, Daley, Doody, 1959

20: North Buttress, 5.7, Smith, Wilson, 1952

21: The Souvenir, 5.10d, Gaines, Peterson, 1995

22: Sahara Terror, 5.7, Flinchbaugh, Gorin, Shand, 1942/Austin, Pabst 

23: Three Hour Tour, 5.10d, Gaines, Peterson, 1994

24: Magical Mystery Tour, 5.11c R, Cox, Evans, Graham, Sorenson, Wilson, 1973/Cox, Hensel, 1976

25: The Incision, 5.11c, Gaines, Jacobs, 1992

26: Edgehogs, 5.10d, Gaines, Peterson, 1998

27: Whodunit, 5.9, Fitschen, Robbins, 1957/Higgins, Kamps, 1966

28: The Gulp, 5.9, Gerhard, Ross, 1965

29: The Swallow Direct, 5.10a, Robbins, Wilts, 1952

30: Constellation, 5.12a/b, Gaines, Peterson, 1990

31: The Consolation Direct, 5.9, Mendenhall, Wilts, 1953/Herbert, Robbins, 1959

32: The Sham (free variation), 5.11c/d R, Leichtfus, Powell, 1983

33: Farewell Horizontal, 5.10b, Beck, Escher, 1998

34: The Sting, 5.11b/c, Bentwood, Gaines, 1999

35: Wong Climb, 5.8, Coats, Higgins, Molner, 1963

36: Special K, 5.10d R, Bentwood, Gaines, 1999

37: Long Climb (Original Start), 5.8, Robbins, Wilson, 1952

38: The Z Crack, 5.10c, Battey, Cole, Evans, Floyd, Fry, 1985

39: The Illegitimate, 5.9, Herbert, Robbins, 1959

40: Zeno’s Paradox, 5.10d, Lennard, Robbins, 1978

41: White Maiden’s Walkway, 5.4, Johnson, Smith, 1937

42: Heimlich Maneuver, 5.10d, Battey, Binding, Evans, Floyd, 1990

43: Chronic Dislocater, 5.11a/b, Battey, Evans, 1990

44: Bodacious, 5.10c/d, Battey, Evans, Floyd, 1990

45: The 5.7 Arete, 5.10b R, Cole, Evans, Floyd, Gordon, 1986

46: Le Toit Direct, 5.8

47: Slapstick, 5.12b, Mayville, 1999

48: Standup Flake, 5.9

49: Cause for Alarm, 5.11b, Angione, Evans, 1989

50: Man Bites Dog, 5.10c R, Cole, Schweizer, Vogel, 1985

51: Dog Bites Man, 5.10c, Cole, Evans, Fry, 1985

52: The Step, 5.10a, Gallwas, Robbins, 1957/Herbert, Robbins

53: Pooper Scooper, 5.11c, Bartlett, Black, 1972/Lanman, Roed

54: Le Toit, 5.12a R, Chouinard, Frost, Herbert, 1960/Accomazzo, Long, 1973

55: Le Toitlette, 5.11c, Cole, Fry, 1985

56: Super Pooper, 5.10a, Mendenhall, Mendenhall, Wilson, Wilts, 1952/Kamps, Powell, 1967

57: The Price of Fear, 5.10c, McKinny, Prodanovich, 1969/Cox, Sorenson, 1972

58: The Flakes, 5.11c, Robbins, Wilson, 1953/Antel, Harrison, Long, Sorenson, 1973

59: Stairway to Heaven, 5.12a/b, Black, Graber, Hamburg, 1973/Gaines, Long, 1984

60: Happy Hooker, 5.10 A4-, Borello, Gaines, 1994

61: Pharaoh, 5.12, Gilje, Gingery, Lechlinski

62: Vampire Direct Start, 5.10d

63: Vampire Direct Finish, 5.10c R, Sorenson, 1970s

64: The Vampire, 5.11a, Rearick, Robbins, 1959/Accomazzo, Antel, Graham, Long, 1973

65: The Bat, 5.11b R, Gaines, Gaines, 1987

66: Field of Dreams, 5.11b, Gaines, Peterson, 1996

67: The Crucifix, 5.11b, Gaines, Romero, 1995

68: Chin Strap Crack, 5.10c R, Harrell, Raymond, 1966

69: The Passover, 5.10d, Coats, Higgins, Kamps, 1964/Accomazzo, Sorenson, 1973

70: Ziggy Stardust, 5.10c, Wilkening, Wilson, 1975

71: Lower Royal’s Arch, 5.10d, Robbins, Wilson, Wilts, 1952/Accomazzo, Sorenson, 1973

72: Upper Royal’s Arch, 5.8, Gallwas, Robbins, Wilts, 1953

73: Piton Pooper, 5.7+, Brinton, Johnson, 1936/Austin, Wilts, Wilts, 1949

74: Gallwas Gallop, 5.9+, Gallwas, Robbins, Wilts, 1953

75: The Trough, 5.4, Brinton, Jasaitis, Smith, 1936

76: The Rack, 5.10a, Kamps, Powell, Powell, 1961

77: Legends of the Fall, 5.10c PG, Bentwood, Gaines, Vaught, 2009

78: The Jam Crack, 5.8, Robbins, Wilson, 1959

79: Sweedish Variation, 5.10d TR, Gaines, Jewlet, 2004

80: Manwich, 5.11a, Ayers, Fry, Marshall, 1986

81: Dave’s Deviation, 5.9 R, Frost, Robbins, 1960

82: Poker Face, 5.12a, Gaines, Mayville, 1993

83: Scar Face, 5.11d, Cole, Gaines, 1985

84: Devil’s Delight, 5.10b R, Powell, Powell, 1966

85: Cutter, 5.11b/c, Gaines, Mayville, 1993

86: The Blank, 5.10a, Gallwas, Robbins, 1954/Frost, Kamps, 1960

87: Jonah, 5.10c, Coats, Cohen, Higgins, 1964

88: Angel’s Fright, 5.6, Rice, Smith, 1936

89: Stage Fright, 5.11b, Lanman, Lanman, Roed, Thomson, 2007

90: Fright Night, 5.12a, Cole, Mayr, 1991

91: Human Fright, 5.10a, Mendenhall, Robbins, 1952/Kamps, 1963

92: Mr. Slate, 5.10d R, Gaines, Peterson, 1996

93: Fred, 5.11a, Cole, Vogel, 1981

94: The Great Gazoo, 5.12b, Murphy, Sartin, 2007

95: Twinkle Toes, 5.11d, Murphy, Sartin, 2008

96: Switchbacks, 5.8 R, Gallwas, Lilley, 1953

97: Betty, 5.9+, Gaines, 1994

98: Dino, 5.10c, Carmichael, Gaines, 1994

99: The Quarry, 5.11c, Borrello, Gaines, 1993

100: Blanketty Blank, 5.10c, Daley, Frost, 1977/Higgins, Kamps, 1963

101: Pebbles, 5.11c, Gaines, 1994

102: Wilma, 5.11c R, Cole, Raker, Vogel, 1983

103: Bedrock, 5.11a, Gaines, Gordon, Peterson, 1997

104: The Slab, 5.8, Daley, McCelland, 1958/Herbert, Kamps, 1963

105: Point Blank, 5.12b, Gaines, 1998

106: Crimes of Passion Direct, 5.11b, Gaines, Gaines, 1987

107: Fingertrip, 5.7, Gillespie, Rosenblatt, Wilts, 1946

108: Fingertip Traverse, 5.3, Brinton, Johnson, Rice, Smith, 1936

109: Dos Equis, 5.11a, Albert, Gaines, 1986

110: Pigs in Bondage, 5.10a, Allen, Roberts, 1985

111: El Camino Real, 5.10a, Daley, Robbins, Taylor, 1961

112: Jensen’s Jaunt, 5.6, Jensen, McDonald, Smith, 1938

113: The Hangover, 5.12c, Gallwas, Martin, Robbins, Sherrick, 1954/Accomazzo, Lechlinski, Long, Muir, 1978

114: No Free Lunches, 5.10d, Lanman, Lanman, Roed, Thomson, 2007

115: Chimney Route, 5.7

116: Freelove, 5.11b, Barry et al., 1993

Updates

May 3, 2024: Graphic design update