Southern Tip to Shiprock

The birthplace of modern sport climbing in the USA, Smith Rock holds a special place in American climbing history, with the first 5.14 in North America (To Bolt or Not To Be, on the poster), the first 5.14c (Just Do It, not visible on the poster). Like fine wines, most Smith routes improve with age, mostly because superfluous holds break and flakes get kicked down.

 

This poster shows one of the most classic and dense succession of walls in the park, stretching from the Southern Tip and hitting the Smith Rock Group, the Christian Brothers, the Dihedrals, the Fourth Horseman, the Morning Glory Wall, the Ships and Gullies, the Table Scraps Wall and even the why-on-earth-would-you-want-to-ever-climb-that Shiprock formation. That's currently 267 routes!

 

If you are wondering about that massive wall staring right at you when you park and begin hiking, check out Smith Rock - Picnic Lunch Wall.

Route List

1: Vulture Ridge, 5.6 X, Watts, 1991

2: Smith Rock Group Traverse, 5.9+ A0 X, Starick, Wentz, 2017

3: Flake Chimney, 5.6 R, 1970s

4: When Llamas Bolt, 5.11a, Tvedt, 1995

5: Llamas on the Edge, 5.10d, Watts, 1996

6: Scary/Hissing Llamas, 5.8, Tvedt, Tvedt, 1994

7: Jim Treviso Memorial Route, 5.10b, Soule, 1992

8: Fred on Air, 5.10d, Lince, 1987

9: License to Bolt, 5.11c, Ellington, Sandahl, 1987

10: Phoenix, 5.10a, Currens, 1976

11: Drill’Em and Fill’Em, 5.10a, Puddy, Watts, 1987

12: Carabid, 5.6 R, Bury, Sutterlin, 1977

13: Death by Vulture, 5.8 X, Ablao, Kamm, 2008

14: Vulture Gully, 5.8 X, Watts, 1991

15: Dyer’s Eve, 5.10d, Emde, Lawson, 2002

16: X-Files, 5.10a X, Emde, Lawson, 2002

17: East Wall, 5.8 X, Arrington, Fry, 1973/Lyford, Thomas, 1974

18: Antisocial Behavior, 5.6 A2, Emde, Lawson, 2000

19: The Struggle Within, 5.11d, Emde, 2004

20: Harvester of Sorrow, 5.11d, Lawson, 2000/Emde, 2000

21: European Vacation, 5.11a R, Emde, Lawson, 2007

22: No Vacation, 5.12a, Emde, 2008

23: Eye of the Beholder + Finish, 5.11d, Lawson, 2008

24: 100% Beef, 5.13c, Sandahl, 1991/Stöger, 2006

25: Livin’ Large, 5.13a, Sandahl, 1992

26: Condor, 5.10c, Anglin, Rich, 1986

27: Blackened, 5.11c/d, Lawson, 2000

28: American Nirvana, 5.11c, Emde, Lawson, 2007

29: The Dobby Brothers, 5.10c X, Emde, Lawson, 2007

30: Entering Relativity, 5.10d, Tvedt, Tvedt, 1999

31: When Llamas Need Protection, 5.10a, Tvedt, 1999

32: Llama Enlightenment, 5.10c, Tvedt, Tvedt, 1999

33: Seekers of Enlightenment and Choss, 5.7, Tvedt, Tvedt, 2000

34: Wannabee Llamas, 5.8, Tvedt, Tvedt, Tvedt, 1999

35: Llama Sutra, 5.12a, Tvedt, 1999/Hensel, Moon, 2001

36: Street Candy, 5.11a, Foster

37: Why? D.S.L., 5.9 X, Hankins, 1990s

38: Freedom’s Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose, 5.12b, Ablao, Emde, 2004

39: Snibble Tower, 5.9+ C1, Haek, Marshall, 1969

40: Ground Up Vegetarian, 5.10b R, Emde, Lawson, 2003

41: Good Ol’ Variation, 5.11b, Emde, 2004

42: The Good Old Days, 5.11c, Emde, 2004

43: Farewell to Smith, 5.11a, Emde, Lawson, 2003/Baldwin, Emde, 2004

44: Black Velcro, 5.9 R, Cartier, Thomas, 1978

45: Evolution Theory, 5.11b, Adams, Deffenbaugh, 2008

46: Destiny Unbound, 5.11b, Deffenbaugh, 2009

47: Fish Taco Dihedral, 5.8 A2, Adams, Deffenbaugh, 2008

48: Season’s Change, 5.11b, Ablao, Deffenbaugh, 2008

49: Grettir’s Saga, 5.10a R, Steele, 1982

50: Lost in Space, 5.10b, Ablao, Deffenbaugh, 2008

51: Kevin’s Arete/Cheap Polyester, 5.11c, Gianino, Jones, 1997

52: Lycra, 5.10b, Gianino, Jones, 1997

53: White Satin, 5.9, Phillips, Thomas, 1974

54: Sky Chimney, 5.7, Cummins, Jensen, 1969/Callahan, Phillips, 1974

55: King Nothing, 5.7, Gianino, 1997

56: Sky Chimney var., 5.7, Lester, 1979

57: Master of Puppets, 5.10c, McRae, Tanhoff, 2016

58: Damage, Inc, 5.11d, McRae, Roseborrough, 2019

59: Leper Messiah, 5.10b, Cotrufello, McRae, 2015

60: Higher Messiah, 5.11c, McRae, 2018

61: Orion, 5.10a, Braun, McRae, 2015

62: Sky Ways, 5.10a R, Hansen, Phillips, Thomas, 1974/Anglin, Cartier, 1981

63: Hawks Nest, 5.9, Kaagen, McRae, Potter, 2014

64: Risky Pass, 5.10c, McRae, 2015

65: By Ways, 5.8 R, Allegar, Poublan, 1980

66: Sky Ridge, 5.8 R, Cummings, Jensen, 1968

67: Sky Dive, 5.10c, Cummins, Jensen, 1968/Blust, Cochran, 1981

68: Kathleen Finds an Edge, 5.7, Buzzard, 1984

69: That 10d, 5.12a, Brumwell, 2003    

70: Jeté, 5.8, Miller-Watts, Watts, 1988

71: Lightsaber, 5.10a, Hanslits, 2016    

72: Dancer, 5.7, Carpenter, 1976

73: Return of the Redeye, 5.11b, Collins, 2016

74: Toy Blocks, 5.10a, Kearney, Thomas, 1977

75: Earth Boys, 5.10b, Bruzzano, Watts, 1996

76: Ring of Fire, 5.11d, Sandahl, 1988

77: Hesitation Blues, 5.10b, Benesch, Watts, 1980

78: Attic Antics, 5.11b, Watts, 1982

79: Tinker Toy, 5.9 X, Ramsey, Thomas, Watts, 1978

80: Overnight Sensation, 5.11b, Sandahl, 1987

81: Charlie’s Chimney, 5.6, Caldwell, Kiefer, 1967

82: Private Trust, 5.11c R, Watts, 1984

83: Bum Rush the Show, 5.13b, Sandahl, 1991

84: Double Stain, 5.13a, Jensen, 1969/Watts, 1984

85: Fright Night, 5.13d R, Ruana

86: Culture of Fear, 5.12b, Collins

87: Panic Attack, 5.12a, Moore, 2000

88: El Sancho, 5.12b, Sandahl, 2012

89: Blasphemy, 5.11a, Lawson, 1998/Egan, Emde, 1999

90: Island in the Sky, 5.8 R, Steele, Steele, 1981

91: Last Gasp, 5.9 R, Cox, Rogers, 1972

92: Safety Valve, 5.7 R, 1970s

93: Gothic Cathedral, 5.8 R, Bauman, Jern, 1960s

94: Nightingales on Vacation, 5.10b, Bruzzano, Miller-Watts, Watts, 1990

95: Via Dolorosa, 5.10c, Davis, McDaniel, McDaniel, 1997

96: Holy Road, 5.11b, McRae, Rowley, 2013

97: Heathen’s Highway, 5.10a, Anglin, 1979

98: Irreverence, 5.10a, Miller-Watts, Watts, 1988

99: Revelations, 5.9, Carpenter, Tyreman, 1975

100: New Testament, 5.10a, Fry, Kemp, 1973

101: The Mark Cartier Memorial Route, 5.10c, Sandahl, 2012

102: Barbecue the Pope, 5.10b, Sandahl, 1988

103: Temptation, 5.10a, Kamara, Watts, 1981

104: Golgotha, 5.11b R, Johnson, Watts, 1981

105: Left Side of the Beard, 5.6, Bauman, Newman, 1968

106: Littleneck, 5.8+, Wright, 2018

107: Risk Shy, 5.12a R, Watts, 1984

108: Right Side of the Beard, 5.7, Bauman, Newman, 1968

109: The Clam, 5.11d, Phillips, 1989/Watts, 1989

110: Burning Churches, 5.12b, Wright, 2018

111: Wartley’s Revenge + Finish, 5.11a, Haack, Jern, Rogers, 1972/Jones, Thomas, 1978

112: Heresy, 5.11c, Lawson, 1999

113: Shoes of the Fisherman, 5.11b, Moore, Thomas, 1975/Thomas, 1977 

114: Toes of the Fisherman, 5.13, Watts, 1984

115: Mystery Aid Seam, A5, 1990s

116: Air to Spare, 5.9 A4, Anglin, Blust, 1981

117: Scarface, 5.14a, Franklin, 1988

118: Rude Femmes, 5.13c, Watts, 1988

119: Rude Boys, 5.13b, Watts, 1985/Tribout, 1986

120: Boy Prophet, 5.12b R, Watts, 1984

121: Dreamin’, 5.12a R, Sandahl, 1988    

122: Choke on This, 5.13a, Benesch, 1988

123: Smooth Boy, 5.13b, Johnson/Tribout, 1991    

124: Rawhide, 5.11d, Sandahl, 1988

125: The Riot Squad, 5.11+, Anderson, Anderson, Watts, 2021

126: Big Bone Lick, 5.11d

127: Chemical Ali, 5.14a, Milton, 2003

128: La Shootist, 5.12d, Brumwell, 1999

129: Deep Splash, 5.11d, Egan, 1991

130: Go Dog Go, 5.12c, Watts, 1988

131: Helium Woman, 5.9, Goodwin, Pogue, 1990

132: Lycopodophita + Finish, 5.8, Fry, Thomas, 1972

133: Bunny Face, 5.7, Currens, Thomas, 1977

134: Chain Reaction, 5.12c, Watts, 1983

135: Darkness at Noon, 5.13a, Watts, 1985

136: Heinous Cling, 5.12c, Watts, 1984

137: Moonshine Dihedral + Finish, 5.9 R, Fry, Thomas, 1972

138: Middle Aged Vandal, 5.11c, Watts, 1996

139: The Flat Earth, 5.12a, Horst, 1991

140: Wedding Day, 5.10b, Aimeer, Davidson, 1984

141: Moondance + Finish, 5.11c R, Grover, Watts, 1984

142: Last Waltz, 5.12c, Watts, 1983

143: Last Waltz Direct, 5.12c R, Watts, 1985

144: To Bolt or not to Be, 5.14a, Tribout, 1986

145: The French Connection, 5.13b, Tribout, 1988

146: Sunshine Dihedral, 5.12a, Lester, Watts, 1981

147: Little Miss Sunshine, 5.14a, Watts, 1989/Caldwell, 2009

148: Powder in the Eye, 5.12c, Troussier, 1986

149: Take a Powder, 5.12b, Watts, 1987

150: Almost Nothing, 5.11d, Troussier, 1986

151: Tater Tots, 5.10a R, Smelsar, Thomas, 1977

152: Trivial Pursuit, 5.10d R, Watts, 1983

153: Fresh Squeezed, 5.11a, Sandahl, 2002/Moon, 2002

154: Kilo Watts, 5.9 A4, Amelunxen, Diamond, 2000

155: Watts Tots, 5.12b, Watts, 1983

156: Mega Watts, 5.13b TR, Watts, 1989

157: Latest Rage, 5.12b, Watts, 1984

158: Monster Rage, 5.12d R, Stöger, 2005

159: Firing Line, 5.12b, Watts, 1984

160: Low Profile, 5.12c R, Watts, 1984

161: Karot Tots, 5.11b, Cummings, Jensen, 1970/Cartier, Watts, 1980

162: Karate Wall, 5.12c, Watts, 1984

163: Karate Crack, 5.10a, Babcock, Caldwell, 1966/Fry, Lyford, 1973

164: Power Dive, 5.12a, Watts, 1984/von Heideken, 1998    

165: Crossfire, 5.12b, Watts, 1984

166: Slow Burn, 5.11d R, Watts, 1983

167: Peapod Cave, 5.10a, Babcock, Caldwell, 1966/Fry, Lyford, 1966

168: Cry Baby, 5.9, Sandahl, Schwarz, 1998

169: Cinnamon Toast, 5.7 R, Carpenter, Lehman, Sutterlin, Thomas, 1977

170: Cinnamon Slab, 5.6, Bauman, 1960s

171: Ginger Snap, 5.8, Miller-Watts, Watts, 1989

172: Rodney’s Chocolate Frosted Love Donut, 5.8, Gonthier, Kelly, Spencer, 1999

173: Night Flight, 5.5, Watts, Watts, 1999

174: Left Slab Crack, 5.4, 1960s 

175: Easy Reader, 5.6, Miller-Watts, Watts, 1989

176: Right Slab Crack, 5.6, 1960s

177: Lichen It, 5.8,Miller-Watts, Watts, 1989

178: Equus, 5.11b, Watts, 1987

179: Headless Horseman, 5.10d, Phillips, 1987

180: Pack Animal, 5.8, Callahan, Thomas, 1974

181: Taiwan On, 5.10c, Wolfe, 1996

182: Sundancer, 5.10a, Bishop, Colley, Olson, 1989

183: Pack Animal Direct, 5.10b, Elphinston, Rogers, 1972/Sutterlin, Thomas, 1977

184: The John Galt Line, 5.11b, Wolfe, 1996

185: Catastrophic Crack, 5.12a R, Watts, 1983

186: Calamity Jam, 5.10c, Smelsar, Thomas, 1977

187: Crack of Infinity, 5.10b, Sutterlin, Thomas, 1977

188: Infinity Variation, 5.10a, McKinney, Tichner, 1978

189: Friday’s Jinx, 5.7 R, Fry, Fry, 1973

190: Sunday’s Jinx, 5.7, Carr, 1977

191: No Golf Shoes + Finish, 5.10d, Chinchen, Wolfe, 1996

192: Tuff It Out, 5.10a, Wolfe, 2002

193: Snuffy Smith, 5.9, Wolfe, 1996

194: Hop on Pop, 5.8, Miller-Watts, Watts, 1989

195: Peanut Brittle, 5.8, Sutterlin, Thomas, 1977

196: Pop Goes the Nubbin, 5.10a, Jones, Thomas, 1978

197: Popism, 5.11b, Watts, 1989

198: Tammy Bakker’s Face, 5.10c, Mahoney, 1988

199: Lost Horseman Roof, 5.11c TR, Buzzard, 1984

200: Lion’s Jaw Chimney, 5.7, Bauman, Bauman, 1967

201: Lion’s Jaw, 5.8, Bauman, Bauman, 1967

202: Anonimity, 5.9, Anonymous, 2006

203: In Hind’s Way, 5.9, Buzzard, Radant, 1984

204: One Time Trick, 5.11a, Lester, 1982

205: Five Gallon Bucket, 5.8, Heins, Palfree, 1991

206: Zebra, 5.10a, Martin, Snyder, 1970/Fry, Thomas, 1973

207: The Outsiders, 5.9, Lawson, 2000

208: Light on the Path, 5.10a, Quine, 1988

209: Morning Sky, 5.10c, Tvedt, Tvedt, 1994

210: CAT Scan, 5.11b, Snyder, 1989

211: Gumby, 5.10c, Sandahl, Watts, 1987

212: Zebra Direct, 5.11a, Ramsey, Watts, 1979

213: Zebra Seam, 5.11d, Martin, Snyder, 1970/Byrne, 1984

214: Choss in America, 5.12c, Raleigh, 1988

215: Zion, 5.10a, Devore, Wolfe, 1996

216: Dandy Line, 5.12d, Watts, 1988

217: Lion’s Chair, 5.11a R, Dean, 1968

218: Mane Line, 5.13a, Watts, 1989

219: Energy Crisis, 5.12b, Grullich, 1988

220: Sketch Pad, 5.12d, Grullich, 1987/Weigand, 1988

221: Magic Light + Finish, 5.12b, Grullich, 1987

222: Overboard + Finish, 5.11d, Grullich, 1987

223: Nine Gallon Buckets, 5.10c, Grullich, 1987

224: Cool Ranch Flavor, 5.11b, Lawson, 1999

225: Doritos, 5.12c, Caldwell, 2001

226: Nacho Cheese, 5.12d, Caldwell, 2002

227: Taco Chips, 5.13a, Troussier, 1986

228: Sign of the Times, 5.13a, Goodwin, 1987

229: Churning in the Wake, 5.13a, Olmstead, 1987

230: Churning in the Sky, 5.13a, Smith, 1987

231: Churning in the Ozone, 5.13b, Weigand, 1988

232: Vicious Fish, 5.13d, Watts, 1988

233: Waste Case, 5.13b, Watts, 1988

234: Kings of Rap, 5.12d, Sandahl, 1987

235: White Heat, 5.13c, Watts, 1988

236: Da Kine Corner, 5.12c, Sandahl, 1987    

237: Cocaine Crack, 5.11b, Bower, McGown, 1979/Benesch, Watts, 1981

238: Slit Your Wrists, 5.13b, Weigand, 1988

239: Mr Yuk, 5.14a, Orr, 1999

240: Time’s Up, 5.13a, Goodwin, 1987/Weigand, 1988

241: Covid-5.10, 5.10c, Grom, Schneider, 2020

242: Caffeine Free + Finish, 5.10d, Moore, 2000

243: Phone Call from Satan, 5.9, Borgerd, Lewis, 1999

244: Solar, 5.9, Lyford, Thomas, 1977

245: Power, 5.13b, Sandahl, 1989

246: Purple Headed Warrior, 5.7, Canham, Gonthier, 1996

247: Kill the Hate, 5.13a, Olmstead, 1992

248: Caustic, 5.12b, Hall, 1991

249: Scrotal Avenger, 5.12a, Mrazek, 2001

250: Pouch Whisker, 5.11b, Beckey, Sinclair, 1966/Young, 2011

251: Rainbow Connection, 5.10b, Agocs

252: Time to Shower, 5.8, Fry, Raider, 1973/Lawson, 1999

253: Shipwreck, 5.8 R, Fry, Raider, 1973

254: Chips Ahoy, 5.9, Tichner, 1981

255: Time to Power, 5.12c, Collins, 1992

256: Feel the Chi, 5.10a

257: Fish’n Chips, 5.10c, Moon, 2004

258: Waste Land, 5.8, Callahan, Lyford, Thomas, 1974

259: Slab Happy, 5.9, Ablao, Stahl, 2002

260: Flab Happy, 5.11a TR, Ablao, Stahl, 2002

261: Vanishing Uncertainty, 5.9, Embick, Shuck, 1972/Lyford, Thomas, 1974

262: Vanishing Variation, 5.9 R, Ablao, Stahl, 2002

263: The Skipper’s Little Buddy, 5.10d, Ablao, Stahl, 2002 

264: City Dump, 5.7 R, Payan, Thomson, 1998

265: Voyage of the Cowdog, 5.8+, Bates, 2008

266: West Chimney, 5.7 X, Pearson, Petrie, 1946

267: The Trash Can, 5.7+ X, Goodman, Peraza, 2019

Updates

Oct 30, 2022: Fixed a typo in the caption.

Jan 24, 2023: Updated FA information for >50% of the poster!

July 17, 2023: Minor graphic design update