Nevado Huascarán Sur - East Face

A perfect horseshoe of rock and ice, overlooking a tormented glacier, and reaching the highest point in the country, the east face of Huascarán Sur has not seen a new line since 1980! The two long ridges framing the face are the only ones seeing the very occasional attempt.

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Route List

1: Integral Southeast Ridge, TD, B. Jenkinson, M. Jones, J. Strang, 06/1971
2: Southeast Ridge via South Face, TD-, F. Ayres, H. Kendall, W.V.G. Matthews, D. Michael, I. Ortenburger, L.N. Ortenburger, 07/1958
3: ANZAC Ridge, TD+ 70°, P. Coradine, B. Ryan, G. Wayatt, R.H. Schneider, 06/1971
4: 1980 Variant, TD+, R. Blatherwick, 07/1980
5: Austrian Direct, ED, F. Six, A. Indrich, 08/1979
6: Austrian Route, ED-, S. Hasitschka, E. Koblmüller, E. Lackner, C. Pollet, R. Schulz, 07/1972
7: East Couloir, TD 70°, J.M. Montfort, J. Selga, J. Vinyoli, 08/1978
8: Northeast Ridge, TD+, P. Acuña, A. Pérez, S. Rivas, F. Mautino, 07/1961
9: Northeast Pillar/The Road to Hell, ED-, M. Kovač, B. Ložar, T. Petač, 07/1993

Sources

• “Cordillera Blanca: Escaladas, Parte Norte,” Antonio Gómez Bohórquez, Andesinfo, 2003

• “Escalada en los Andes, Guia de la Cordillera Blanca,” Juan José Tomé, Desnivel, 1999

• “Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru,” David Sharman, Whizzo Climbs, 1995

• “Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, Perú,” Brad Johnson, 2003

• “Highest BASE Jump in South America,” Red Bull Content Pool, YouTube

• The American Alpine Journal

Updates

Nov 19, 2024: First version published.

Mar 1, 2026: Minor caption update