Nevado Huascarán - Northeast Faces

The highest mountain in Peru's Cordillera Blanca (and highest in the Tropics!), Nevado Huascarán is a pair of glaciated summits (Huascarán Sur is 114m higher than Huascarán Norte) with different personalities: their south sides are glaciated and fairly mellow, offering a reasonable normal route, while their north and east aspects, shown here, are massive rock and ice faces with very serious and mostly unrepeated lines. Since a flurry of activities in the 1970s and a handful of new routes in the 1990s, objective danger has kept climbers mostly away. Lone exception, the ever visionary Silvia Vidal and partner Youri Cappis climbed the then-virgin north pyramid wall on Huascarán Norte, capsule style over 18 days!

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Route List

1: Northeast Ridge, TD+, P. Acuña, A. Pérez, S. Rivas, F. Mautino, Jul. 1961
2: Northeast Pillar/The Road to Hell, ED-, M. Kovač, B. Ložar, T. Petač, Jul. 1993
3: Northeast Face, Slovenian Variant, TD+, P. Kozjek, Jul. 1991
4: Northeast Face, French Variant, ED, B. Grison, Jul. 1985
5: North Face via Northeast Glacier, D, J. Agulló, T. Bros, J. Anglès, J. Prunes, R. Biosca, R. Pajares, Jul. 1980
6: Entre Boires, ED+ A3 6a+ 80°, S. Vidal, Y. Cappis, Aug. 2008
7: 1980 Variation, TD+, Y. Astier, J.M. Boucansaud, Jun. 1980
8: Northeast Face, TD+, M. Barrard, L. Desrivières, G. Narbaud, J.J. Ricouard, Aug. 1973
9: Northeast Ridge, ED-, R. Coëne, M. Fevrier, J. Fréhel, J.F. Porret, Aug. 1972
10: Catalan Route, ED A3 90°, J.I. Moreno, J. Tomás, C. Vallés, Jul. 1983
11: Swiss Route, ED+ 6b 90°, D. Anker, K. Saurer, May 1986
12: Casarotto Route, ED A2, R. Casarotto, Jun. 1977
13: Paragot Route, ED, R. Jacob, C. Jacoux, D. Leprince-Ringuet, R. Paragot, Jul. 1966
14: De Skeeper Route, TD+ 60° V, J. de Skeeper, Jul. 1981
15: Northwest Ridge via West Spur, TD 60°, I. Lesjak, F. Knez, M.Čulk, Jun. 1978
16: Northwest Ridge/Italian Route, TD, E. de Tomasi, C. Piazzo, D. Saettone, T. Vidoni, Jul. 1974