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Mount Yamnuska

Mount Yamnuska

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Accurately dubbed the crown jewel of traditional climbing in the Canadian Rockies, Mt Yamnuska (also known as Îyâmnathka and Mt John Laurie) has been a key theater of the development of Canadian climbing since the first ascent of its southeast face in 1952. Though "only" 350m high or so, Yamnuska has a lot of adventure to offer with its limestone of variable quality, exciting protection, challenging routefinding and Canadian weather!

 

This poster is the most complete of the cliff to date, showing almost every route in Andy Genereux's 2016 guidebook, as well as, for the first time, the Girdle traverse (It's All McConnell's Fault). There is also a version with only the Kallen 34.

Route List

1: How the West Was Won, 5.10a, Derbyshire, Quinn, 2003

2: False Promise, 5.7, Derbyshire, Toft, 1981

3: Mean Mistreater, 5.11b, Wallace, 1987

4: BBQ Ledge #1, 5.8

5: BBQ Ledge #2, 5.8

6: BBQ Ledge #3, 5.8

7: Lightning Bolt Crack (BBQ Ledge #4), 5.9, Breitenbach, Kallen, 1973

8: Hot Doggin’ It, 5.12c, Pullan, Rochacewich, 2007

9: Direct Mail, 5.10c, Gatzsch, Genereux, 2004

10: Windy Slabs, 5.6, Bowen, Martin, Slymon, 1968

11: Easy Street, 5.6, Martin, Slymon, 1968

12: King’s Chimney, 5.7, King, Vockeroth, 1964

13: Western Union, 5.8, Beattie, Spear, 1996

14: Gray Goose, 5.7, Howard, Martin, 1978

15: Unnamed (Great Pumpkin), 5.7, Greenwood, Steen, 1961

16: The Toe, 5.7, Hahn, Kallen, 1966

17: Broken Wing, 5.10c, Genereux, 2004

18: Pony Express, 5.10b, Genereux, 2003

19: Jazz Beat of the Nun’s Groove, 5.10a/b, Campbell, Everett, 1996

20: Faith, 5.11b, Derbyshire, Embacher, Quinn, 2008

21: Rejection of the Faith, 5.12a, Genereux, 2005

22: Missionary’s Crack, 5.10d/11a, Greenwood, Vockeroth, 1964

23: Third Time Lucky, 5.11c, Genereux, 2015

24: The Tongue, Left Side, 5.9, Blanchard, Pickel, 1982

25: Hanging Out, 5.10c, Cambpbell, Derbyshire, 1994

26: The Tongue, Right Side, 5.8, Bowen, Martin, 1968

27: Extender, 5.11a, Auger, Derbyshire, Quinn, 1994

28: Belfry, 5.8+, Greenwood, Thomson, 1957

29: Sunny Side of the Alps, 5.10c, Pockar, Skof, 1988

30: Dazed and Confused, 5.10b, Keller, Lauchlan, 1976/Galbraith, Smith, 1987

31: Corvus Corax, 5.10b A2, Campbell, Fulford, Hanson, 2004

32: Necromancer, 5.10b, Homer, Jones, 1971/Blanchard, Marshall, 1981

33: Peter’s Way, 5.10b X, Gatzsch, Trescher, 2004

34: Mexican Backhoe, 5.9, Blanchard, Josephson, 1995

35: Mum’s Fears, 5.10b, Genereux, Marshall, 2003

36: Mum’s Tears, 5.9, Locke, Vockeroth, 1968

37: Rocket Man, 5.9 R, Everett, Reisenhofer, 1990

38: Calgary Route, 5.6, Dopf, Gmoser, 1953

39: Golden Dragon, 5.13b, Galloway, Trotter, 2008

40: Verstiegenheit, 5.12c R, Milton, Steiner, 2004

41: General Pain, 5.12b, Genereux, Marshall, 1988

42: CMC Wall, 5.11b, Davidson, Kallen, 1972/Stark, Wallace, 1984

43: CMC Wall Direct, 5.11b, Genereux, Jones, 1992

44: Super SDAG (Steep, Direct, Adventure with Gravity), 5.11c, DeMaio, Genereux, 2001

45: Lost on CMC, 5.11a

46: Highlander, 5.11a, DeMaio, 1986/DeMaio, Dougherty, 1986

47: Shuftee, 5.9, Howe, Lofthouse, 1971/Boiselle, Cadot, 1978

48: Nightmare on Elm Street, 5.10d X, Gatzsch, Kallen, 2012

49: Direttissima, 5.8+, Gmoser, Grillmair, Kahl, 1957

50: The Super Direct, 5.10d/11a, Friesen, Genereux, 2009

51: Mixed Emotions, 5.10c, Gatzsch, Genereux, 2005

52: Brian’s Song, 5.11b, Wallace, 1986

53: Astro Yam, 5.11c R, DeMaio, Gross, Marshall, 1986

54: Quantum Leap, 5.11d, DeMaio, Marshall, 1990/Akitt, Slawinski, 2003

55: Above and Beyond, 5.12a R, DeMaio, Gross, Marshall, 1986/Harmstom, Shaw, 1999

56: Lord of the Rings, 5.11b, Gatzsch, Genereux, 2003

57: Balrog, 5.10b, Greenwood, Moss, Nicholas, 1969/Cheesmond, Friesen, 1982

58: Yamabushi, 5.12d/13a, Gadd et al., 2006

59: The Wild Boys, 5.10d X, Cheesmond, Gross, Quinn, 1985

60: Mix Master, 5.10a R, Cheesmond, Kallen, 1986

61: Bottleneck, 5.8+, Cole, Lofthouse, 1964

62: Chockstone Corner, 5.9, Kahl, Lofthouse, 1963

63: Chockstone Corner, Direct Start, 5.10a, Grendus, Pogson, 2005

64: Direct-Direct, 5.10a, Heyes, Homer, 1970

65: Bottleneck Direct, 5.10a, Greenwood, Vockeroth, 1965

66: Gormenghast, 5.12a, Campbell, Everett, 1993/Campbell, Everett, Reisenhofer, 1993

67: Unforgiven, 5.11c, Genereux, 2007/Balazs, Genereux, 2007

68: High Voltage, 5.10a, Perry, White, 1981

69: Glory Days, 5.11c, Genereux, Kallen, 2002

70: Grillmair Chimney, Left, 5.7, Gmoser, Grillmair, Spreat, 1952

71: The Hare and the Tortoise, 5.10a, Genereux, Warne, 2005

72: Billy the Kid, 5.11c, Genereux, 2008

73: Missing Link, 5.10d A0/5.12a, Birch, Genereux, 2008

74: Grillmair Chimney Right, 5.6, Gmoser, Grillmair, Spreat, 1952

75: Spring Fever, 5.11b, Genereux, Jones, 1987

76: The Milky Way, 5.10c, Dornian, Josephson, 1998

77: The Flip Side, 5.11b/c, Genereux, 2013

78: The Heat is On, 5.10b X, Cheesmond, Gross, Quinn, 1985

79: Illusions of Grandeur, 5.11c/d, Genereux, 2015

80: The Illusionist, 5.11c/d, Genereux, 2013

81: Kahl Wall Direct, 5.11a, Vockeroth et al., 1970s/Ostrander, 1996

82: Twisted Sister, 5.10c/d, Genereux, 2013

83: Twist of Fate, 5.11b, Genereux, 2013

84: Heinz Special, 5.10d/11a, Genereux, 2013

85: Sign of the Bull, 5.12a, Genereux, 2013

86: Kahl Wall, 5.10a, Auger, Vockeroth, 1971/Blanchard, Doyle, 1981

87: Slight of Hand, 5.10c, Genereux, 2013

88: Bringers of the Dawn, 5.11c/d, Josephson, Steiner, 1997

89: Trap Line, 5.11c, DeMaio, Robinson, 1987/Crosley, Firth, 1997

90: Forbidden Fruit, 5.11b, Genereux, Marshall, 2002

91: Forbidden Corner, 5.10a, MacKay, Vockeroth, 1964

92: Brown Trousers, 5.10d R, Cheesmond, Gross, Quinn, 1985/Everett, Gross, Marshall

93: Dreambed, 5.11b, Akitt, Mooney, Morrison, 1994

94: Cruisin’ for a Bruisin’, 5.11c, Genereux, 2002/Gatzsch, Genereux, 2002

95: Jimmy and the Cruisers, 5.10d/11a R, DeMaio, Nazarchuk, 1990

96: Zig Zag, 5.12a/b, Isaac, Walsh, 2006

97: Red Shirt, Direct Finish, 5.8, Bowen, Hughes, 1988

98: Red Shirt, 5.8+, Greenwood, Kahl, Lofthouse, 1962

99: Sword in the Stone, 5.12a, Genereux, 2015

100: Gray Scale, 5.12a, Genereux, 2005

101: Blood Meridian, 5.12a/b, Genereux, Suchy, 2013

102: Devil’s Right Hand, 5.11b, Genereux, 2007

103: Trigger Finger, 5.11d, Genereux, 2013/Genereux, Suchy, 2013

104: I Wonder, 5.11d, Genereux, 2013

105: Split Personality, 5.11a, Genereux, 2013

106: Excalibur, 5.10c, DeMaio, Marshall, 1988

107: The Bowl, Direct Access, 5.11a, Genereux, 2013

108: In the Spirit of the Tongue, 5.12a/b, Genereux, 2013/Suchy, 2013

109: Sugar Man, 5.11c/d, Genereux, 2013

110: Silver Words, 5.11c, Genereux, 2013

111: Crucify your Mind, 5.11d, Genereux, 2013

112: The Real Deal, 5.11d/12a, Genereux, 2008

113: Cold Fact, 5.11b, Genereux, 2013

114: Climb Up on my Music, 5.10a, Genereux, 2013

115: The Bowl, 5.10c, MacKay, Vockeroth, 1965/Burgess, Lauchlan, Thexton, 1973

116: Jimmy and the Kid, 5.12b, DeMaio, Marshall, 1989/Birch, Suchy, 2009

117: Blue Jeans, 5.13b, Galloway, 2010

118: Blue Jeans Direct, 5.14a, Trotter, Unterasinger, 2015

119: East End Boys, 5.12a, Betts, DeMaio, 1986/DeMaio, Genereux, 1997

120: Yellow Edge, 5.11b, Davidson, Kallen, 1974/Croft, Zacharias, 1986

121: Snert’s Big Adventure, 5.11d, Genereux, 1997/DeMaio, Genereux, 1997

122: The Quickening, 5.11b, DeMaio, Kaandorp, 1989/DeMaio, Nazarchuk, 1997

123: Corner Cutter, 5.9, Genereux, 2015

124: Marriage of Opportunity, 5.11b, Genereux, 2014

125: Corkscrew, 5.9 A0/5.12a R, Greenwood, Fuhrer, Vockeroth, 1967/Crosley, Firth, 1996

126: Marriage Rites, 5.11b, Morgan, Sole, 1981/Crosley, Firth, Valiulis, 1996

127: Take me to Church, 5.11c/d, Genereux, 2015

128: Corkscrew, Direct Start, 5.8, 1980s

129: The Bolt Nazi, 5.11c/d R, Gatzsch, Kallen, 1999

130: Freak Out, 5.9, Davidson, Horne, 1971

131: The Diving Board, 5.11b, Genereux, 2008

132: Pangolin, 5.10b, Greenwood, Lofthouse, Vockeroth, 1965/Heyes, Horne, 1970

133: Boomerang, 5.10c A0, Haberl, Spear, 2001

134: Gargoyle, 5.10b, Josephson, Spear, 1996

135: Smeagol, 5.9, Greenwood, Kallen, 1970

136: Dick’s Route, 5.9, Howe, Lofthouse, 1970

137: Gollum Grooves, 5.7, Greenwood, Lofthouse, 1962

138: Dickel, 5.8, Howe, Lofthouse, 1970

139: Another Fat Bastard, 5.10c, Genereux, 2008

140: A-Route, 5.7, Crocker, Greenwood, 1963

141: Flight of the Bumblebee, 5.10a, Champness, Warne, 2004

142: It’s All McConnell’s Fault, 5.11a A0, 2.8km, Derbyshire, Quinn, 2004

Updates

November 8, 2023: Added the Kallen 34 version as an option in 60x90 and A0.

September 30, 2022: Added the two new routes of 2022: People of the Sun (#54) and Sport Yamaneering (#90).

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