Mount Robson - Kain Face

This poster shows the route of the 1913 first (undisputed) ascent of Mount Robson, the Kain (or Northeast) Face, as well as most of the North and Emperor Faces (see the dedicated poster for more details). This is the least steep but probably the most complex aspect of the mountain, with massive glaciers and icefalls between any prospective climber and the summit.

Free download link - medium resolution, personal use only (no printing allowed)

Route List

1: Kain Face, AD WI3 45°, C. Kain, W.W. Foster, A.H. McCarthy, 07/1913
2: Fuhrer Ridge, TD- 5.4, J.W. Carlson, W.R. Hainsworth, H. Fuhrer, 07/1938
3: North Ridge of the Helmet, AD
4: North Ridge of Mount Waffl, PD
5: South Scree Slopes of Rearguard Mountain, F, ACC Party, 08/1913
6: North Face Couloir, ACC Party, 08/1924
7: North Face of Mt Robson, TD WI3 55°, P. Callis, D. Davis, 08/1963
8: Slovenian Route, ED- 5.3 85°, B. Pocker, T. Skarja, 1990
9: Glidden-Lev-Mohling, ED- WI3 55°, J. Glidden, P. Lev, F. Mohling, 08/1968
10: Becker-Webster, ED- WI3 55°, B. Becker, E. Webster, 09/1982
11: Cheesmond-Dick, ED+ 5.9 A3, D. Cheesmond, T. Dick, 08/1981
12: Logan-Stump, ED+ 5.9 A2, M. Stump, J. Logan, 07/1978
13: House-Haley, ED+ WI5 M7, C. Haley, S. House, 05/2007
14: Kruk-Walsh, ED+ WI5 M7, J. Kruk, J. Walsh, 06/2010
15: Running in the Shadows, ED+ WI5 M6 A1, E. Berman, U. Hawthorn, 10/2020
16: Infinite Patience, ED+ 5.9 M5 WI5, B. Blanchard, E. Dumerac, P. Pellet, 10/2002
17: Emperor Ridge, TD 5.6, R. Perla, T.M. Spencer, 07/1961

Sources

• “Dragons in the Mist, Mountain Profile: Mt Robson,” Barry Blanchard, Alpinist Magazine, Issue 29, Winter 2009-2010
• “Selected Climbing Routes of Mt Robson,” Gregory Horne, Gregory Horne Photographics, 1989
• “Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada

• North,” William L. Putnam, Robert Kruszyna, Chris Jones, AAC/ACC, 1974
• “Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies,” Sean Dougherty, Rocky Mountain Books, 1991
• “Mt Robson’s Emperor Face,” James Logan, AAJ, Vol. 22, Issue 1, 1979
• “Infinite Patience,” Éric Dumerac, Gripped Magazine, March 2003
• “Mt Robson, Emperor Face, New Climbing to Emperor Ridge,” Jason Kruk, AAJ, Vol. 53, Issue 85, 2011
• “Mt Robson, Emperor Face, Haley-House,” Steve House, AAJ, Vol. 50, Issue 82, 2008
• “Running in the Shadows, A Four-Day Adventure on Yexyexéscen,” Ethan Berman, AAJ, Vol. 63, Issue 95, 2021
• “Mount Robson Summer Camp 1955,” Pete Colgrove, CAJ, 1956

Updates

Mar 24, 2026: First version published.