Mount MacDonald - North Face

Looming over the Trans-Canada Highway and Rogers Pass, the north face of Mt MacDonald offers very serious and long climbs in both summer and early winter (before the mountain closes for avalanche control operations). Most of the recent activity has focused on the Little Face area on the right side, but a lot of terrain remains unexplored for would-be first ascentionists!

Route List

1: Railroad Ridge, F, Lewis et al., 1886

2: North Buttress, D 5.8, Bowers, Flick, Schneiblie, 1993

3: Diagonal Gully, D 5.8 WI4, Beglinger, Flick, 2002

4: The Indirect American, ED WI4+ M7, Wright, Zimmerman, 2018

5: Beardmore-Bellis Route, D 5.8, Beardmore, Bellis, 1997

6: Direct Central Rib, D 5.4, Baker, Bradford, Forrester, MacKay, 1963

7: Beckey-Fuller Route, 5.6 C2+, Beckey, Fuller, 1965

8: North Pillar, ED 5.11b A0, Kay, Walsh, 2005

9: North Pillar Direct, ED+ 5.11b A0, Relph, Walsh, 2010

10: Prime Rib, ED 5.11b, Moorhead, Walsh, 2004

11: Little Face, Waterman Route, TD+ 5.8 A3, Waterman, Waterman, 1974

12: Exit Through the Gift Shop, ED+ 5.11d A0, Dorsey, van Oort, 2016

13: Position of Comfort, ED+ 5.11+ A2, Ammerlaan, McLane, 2016

14: Dorsey-Mackanness Route, Dorsey, Mackanness, 2015

15: Haley-Schaefer Route, Haley, Schaefer, 2014

16: Short Rib, TD- 5.11 A0, Cummings, Sproul, 2009

17: Northwest Ridge Integral, D+ 5.8, Bay, Davis, 1995

Updates

October 11, 2022: Graphical design update