Mount Andromeda - Northeast Face

With its short and easy approach from the Icefield Parkways and decent rock quality (by Canadian Rockies standards), Mount Andromeda deservedly is a hot spot of alpine mixed climbing in the range. Possibly the most classic hard route in the Rockies, Andromeda Strain is a line that many (myself included) would love to have on their climbing resume. On a much more accessible level, Skyladder is a wonderful moderate journey up a significant summit.

Download: Medium resolution, personal use only

Route List

1: East Ridge, AD+ WI2, Brett, Feuz, Gale, Gest, Hind, Murray, Prescott, Schnellbacher, Williams, 1938
2: Practice Gully: Far Earth, AD- WI3
3: Practice Gully: Middle Earth, AD- WI3
4: Practice Gully: Near Earth, AD- WI3
5: The Doctor, the Tourist, his Crampon and their Banana, ED2 M7, Semple, Slawinski, 2006
6: Andromeda Strain, ED1 5.10d M6 WI5, Blanchard, Cheesmond, Friesen, 1983/Culberson, Turner, 1997
7: M31, D+ M4, Babanov, Slawinski, 2005
8: Shooting Gallery, D+ 5.9 WI3, Sorenson, Strugatz, 1975
9: Asteroid Alley, TD 5.9 M6, J. Lowe, 1980
10: Gow Route, AD+ WI2, Gow, Raymond, 1966
11: North Bowl, AD+ WI4, Boisselle, Ware, 1976
12: Photo Finish, D WI4, Glidden, Hamre, Lowe, 1972
13: Cool’n Breezy, D+ 5.9 A1 WI4, Thomas, 1987
14: Northwest Shoulder Direct, D- WI4, J. Lowe, 1973
15: Skyladder, AD+ WI2, Lomas, Wilson, 1955

Sources

• “Rockies West

• The Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada, Volume III,” David P. Jones, Thin Gruel Press, 2018

• The American Alpine Journal, Vol. 49, Issue 81, 2007

• Will Mayo

• Raphael Slawinski

• David Lama

• Mountain Project

• SummitPost.org

Updates

Jan 8, 2023: First version published.

July 19, 2023: Graphical design update

Sep 6, 2025: Graphic design update