Mont Maudit - Face Est

Split in two by the famous Küffner Ridge, the east face of Mont Maudit contains very wild and rarely attempted routes on the left and classic hard mixed lines on the right, inside one of Mont-Blanc's two "Combe Maudite".

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Route List

1: Griffin-Torrans, D+ WI1 5a, Griffin, Torrans, 1975
2: Voie Diagonale, D/5.4 E4, Baumont, Decorps, 1977/Benedetti, 1983
3: Country Couloir, TD- WI5, Belinger, Fantini, 1979
4: Voie Giannina, TD, Bonatti, Ferrario, Oggioni, 1959
5: Couloir E, D, Bonnenfant, Simonet, 1961/Boivin, 1982
6: Neige, Glace et Mixte, D WI4, Artru, Damilano, Guérin, Heinz, Maurus, Perroux, Pilou, 1996
7: Variante des Suisses,Aubert, Dittert, Marullaz, 1937
8: Dom, TD+ WI6, Gabarrou, Marsigny, 1987
9: Voie Crétier, D+ 5c, Binel, Chabod, Crétier, 1929
10: Bougerol-Mroz, TD 5c, Bougerol, Mroz, 1971
11: Voie Bonatti, TD 5c, Bonatti, Gallieni, Oggioni, 1959
12: Slovaque Directe, TD+ 5c A1, Chrenka, Launer, Piacek, Tarabek, 1975
13: Carroz d’As, TD- WI5, Broisin, Gabarrou, 1987
14: Kagami-Perren, D+ WI3, Kagami, Perren, 1929
15: Directe Polonaise, TD- WI3 6a, Sadus, Zawadzki, 1963
16: Couloir SE, TD- WI4+, Gabarrou, Steiner, 1981
17: Arête Küffner, D, Burgener, Furrer, Küffner, 1887
18: Choucas Blancs, D WI2, Asselin, Gabarrou, 1985
19: Surprise, TD WI4+ 5a, Passino, Petigax, 1989
20: Couloir de la Consolation, D WI3, Gabarrou, Stratta, 1985
21: Mixed Emotion, TD WI3 M5, Datrino, Vivalda, 1997
22: Grand Couloir de l’Androsace, D+ WI4, Gabarrou, Muller, 1979
23: Fille ou Garçon, TD- WI4+ 4b, Girod, Guérin, Perroux, 1995
24: Voie des Blaireaux, TD- WI4+
25: Pibaro-ci, Pibaro-là, TD- 5c, Gabarrou, Pibarot, 1988
26: Directissime Baxter-Jones, TD WI4+ M4, Gabarrou, Maquennehan, 1978
27: À l’Est, Rien de Nouveau, TD+ WI5+, Perroux et al.
28: Voie Anderson, D, Almer, Anderson, Bowlby, Imseng, 1888
29: Filo di Arianna, TD+ WI5, Faré, Grassi, Longhi, 1984
30: Fantasia per a Ghacciatore, TD+ WI5+, Gabarrou, Gourdin, Passino, 1989
31: Lacrima degli Angeli, TD+ WI5 M4+, Grassi, Statta, 1985

Sources

• “Neige, Glace et Mixte, Volume 2”, François Damilano, JMEditions, 2006

• “Guide Vallot : La Chaîne du Mont Blanc, Volume I”, Lucien Devies et Pierre Henry, 3ème édition, Arthaud, 1973

• Patrick Gabarrou

• Camptocamp.org

Updates

Mar 10, 2021: First version published.

Oct 18, 2022: Graphic design update

Apr 21, 2024: Graphic design update

Aug 18, 2025: Graphic design update