Monkey Face - West Face

After the Northeast Face (and Just Do It), here is the slightly more accessible West Face of the one and only Monkey Face pillar in Smith Rock. It features the ultra-classic West Face, which is unlikely to ever go free, a couple of (relatively) moderate lines, Astro Monkey and Monkey Farce, as well as other angles on the Backbone and the Northwest Corner. And views of several nearby areas that would be getting a lot more traffic with a shorter approach: Mesa Verde Wall, Pleasure Palace, Diamonds and Rust and Kiss of the Lepers.

Special thanks to Josh Janes for his invaluable help, once again!

Route List

1: First Kiss, 5.8, Emde, 2002

2: Chicken Little, 5.6, Easthope, Smelsar, 1978

3: Mr Toad’s Wild Ride, 5.9 R, Easthope, Smelsar, 1978

4: Funguy Roof, 5.10c X, Barbitta, 1996

5: Spank the Monkey, 5.12a R, Watts, 1985

6: Spank the Monkey Full, 5.13d R, Nazarian, 1996/T. Caldwell, 2004

7: Northwest Corner, 5.12a, Ashworth, Bauman, 1969/Watts, 1985

8: The Backbone, 5.13a, Gullich, Kauk, Watts, 1989/Kauk, 1989

9: The Coccyx, 5.12a, Janes, 2023

10: Sheer Trickery, 5.12c, Gullich, Kauk, Watts, 1989

11: West Face, 5.12a A1, Babcock, D. Caldwell, Lentsch, 1962

12: Pose Down var., 5.12a A0, Benesch, 1989

13: Pose Down, 5.12c, Benesch, 1989

14: Monkey Space Finish, 5.11b, Jones, Ramsey, 1979

15: Astro Monkey, 5.12a, Bauman, 1970/Grover, Watts, 1983

16: Moving in Stereo, 5.11d, Benesch, 1986

17: Drug Nasty/Dean’s Dream, 5.11c, Hart, 1987

18: West Face var., 5.8, Ashworth, Bauman, 1965/Ashworth, Bauman, 1967

19: West Face var., Direct Start, 5.8, 1960s

20: Monkey Farce, 5.10b R, Smelsar, Thomas, 1977

21: Second Pitch Connection, 5.7

22: Blow Cocoa, 5.11d, Benesch, 1989

23: Godzilla, 5.9, Bauman, 1966/Gates, Strauch, 1970

24: King Kong, 5.9, Arighi, Neiland, 1967/Gates, Strauch, 1970

25: King Kong Direct, 5.10a R, Ramsey, Watts, 1978

26: Potential Energy, 5.10b R, Lester, Wheeler, 1980/Barbella, Watts, 1981

27: Mighty Mouse, 5.11b, Chinchen, Soh, 2020

28: Rust Never Sleeps, 5.6 X, 1970s

29: The Wonkinator, 5.11b TR

30: Schleppin’ for Hollywood, 5.11c, Wolfe, 1996

31: Diamonds and Rust, 5.8 X, Cartier, Smelsar, 1979

32: Slow Train, 5.7 R, Carpenter, Carpenter, 1984

33: We Be Toys, 5.10a, Pajunas, Sprecher, 1989

34: Red Scare, 5.10b, Pajunas, Sprecher, 1989

35: Watermark, 5.9, Durand, Meyers, 1996

36: Lichen Persuasion, 5.7, Carr, Sprecher, 1978

37: Four Fs, 5.8, Barbitta, 1985

38: Planet Luxury, 5.10c, Pajunas, Sprecher, 1992

39: Trezlar, 5.10a, Cox, Johnson, Rogers, 1972/Davis, Thomas, 1976

40: Cosmos, 5.10a, Pajunas, Rall, Sprecher, 1989

41: Screaming Yellow Zonkers, 5.10b, Benesch, Watts, 1982

42: Moons of Pluto, 5.10d, Cornelius, 1984

43: Bad Moon Rising, 5.11a, Messinger, 1989

44: Minas Morgul, 5.11d, Arrington, 1972/Grover, Watts, 1981

45: Sundown, 5.9, Kearney, Kearney, 1978

46: Down’s Syndrome, 5.10a R, Buzzard, 1980

47: Tale of Two Shities, 5.10a, Casey, Mayko, 1977/Hartley, Jones, Thomas, 1978

48: Chuck’s Crack, 5.10b R, Buzzard, 1986

49: Western Chimney, 5.5 R, Cummings, Peyton, 1963

50: Long Time Gone, 5.13a, Puddy, Watts, 1996

51: Captain Fingers, 5.10a, Benesch, Benesch, 1980

52: Stiff Little Fingers, 5.9, 1990