Matterhorn - South Face

Incredibly complex, the south face of the Matterhorn towers over the small town of Cervinia. On its left side, the classic Lion Ridge, the second normal route on the mountain, and on the right the hardest of the four ridges, the Furggen. In between, a playground of classic and modern hard routes with still a lot of potential new terrain to explore.

 Special thanks to Hervé Barmasse, probably the person who knows the face best, for helping draw the lines!

Route List

1: Lion Ridge, AD+, Bich, Carrel, 1865

2: De Amicis Ridge, D 5c, De Amicis, Frusta, 1906

3: Per Nio, ED 6a+, Barmasse, Poletto, 2000

4: De Amicis Ridge Direct, D+, Crétier, Gaspard, Oilietti, 1933

5: De Amicis Ridge Integral, D+, Carrel, Carrel, Perino, 1940

6: Via Diretta Allo Scudo, ED+ 7a, Cazzanelli, Favre, Ferraris, Ratti, 2018

7: Via Casarotto, ED- 5b, Casarotto, Grassi, 1983

8: Deffeyes Ridge, TD 4b, Carrel, Deffeyes, 1942

9: Couloir Barmasse, ED, Barmasse, Barmasse, 2010

10: South Face Direttissima, ED-, Barmasse, Cazzanelli, de Tuoni, 1983

11: Variante Hervé Barmasse in solitaria, ED-, Barmasse, 2007

12: Via Carrel South Face, TD- 5a, Benedetti, Bich, Carrel, 1931

13: Via Carrel al Picco Muzio, TD-, Carrel, Maquignaz, Muzio, 1953

14: Variante Barmasse, Barmasse, 2007

15: Trije Musketirji, TD 5a A0, Galuh, Jaka, Knez, 1983

16: L’Amitié, ED+ 6c A0, Cazzanelli, Farina, Ratti, 2021

17: Padre Pio Prega per Tutti, ED- 6c, Gabarrou, Ravaschietto, 2004

18: Échelle dans le Ciel, ED, Gabarrou et al., 2015

19: Flowers Ridge, TD+ 5c A1, Calcagno, Cerruti, di Pietro, Machetto, 1970

20: Via Barmasse Hervé, ED+, Barmasse, 2011

21: Furggen Ridge, D+, Carrel, Gaspard, Piacenza, 1911

22: Via Piacenza, TD-, Carrel, Gaspard, Piacenza, 1911

23: Variante Bonatti-Bignami, TD, Bignami, Bonatti, 1953

24: Diretta degli Strapiombi di Furggen, TD 5b, Carrel “Le Petit”, Chiara, Perino, 1941

Updates

Oct 11, 2022: Graphic design update

May 24, 2023: Fixed typo in route name for line 17, thanks to Luca Guastoni

May 24, 2024: Graphic design update