Matterhorn - East and North Faces
Matterhorn - East and North Faces
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The most recognizable mountain of the Alps (and probably the entire world), the Matterhorn (or Monte Cervino, or Mont Cervin) has four perfect faces and four perfect ridges. Presented here are the Swiss side as seen from Zermatt, with the Furggen ridge, East Face, Hörnli Ridge (Swiss normal route), North Face and Zmutt Ridge.
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Route List
1: Furggen Ridge, D+ X, Carrel, Gaspard, Piacenza, 1911
2: Furggen Ridge, via diretta per gli strapiombi, TD 5b X, Carrel “Le Petit”, Chiara, Perino, 1941
3: Furggen Ridge, via Hörnli, D X, Burgener, Mummery, Venetz, 1880
4: East Face, TD 5a X, Benedetti, Bich, Carrel, Carrel, Gaspard, Mazzotti, 1932
5: Hörnli Ridge, AD 4b, Croz, Douglas,Hadow, Hudson, Taugwalder, Taugwalder, Whymper, 1865
6: Czechoslovakian Route, ED 6a A3 WI4, Pitelka, Rybicka, Smid, 1983
7: Schmid Route, TD+ WI4+ M5, Schmid, Schmid, 1931
8: Czechoslovakian Direct (Sébastien Gay Mémorial), ED WI5 A2/M8, Drilk, Horka, Kadlcik, Prokes, 1972 (Dumas,Fredriksen, Troillet, 2008)
9: Bonatti Route, ED 5c, Bonatti, 1965
10: Japanese Route (Schweizernase), ED, Furukawa, Miyagawa, Okitsu, 1972 (Arnold, Huber, Senf, 2017)
11: Zmutt Ridge, D 3c, Burgener, Gentinetta, Mummery, Petrus, 1879
Sources
“Alpenglow: Les Plus Belles Voies sur les 4000 des Alpes,” Ben Tibbets, Éditions du Mont Blanc, 2019
“Mountain Profile: The Matterhorn”, Alpinist Magazine, Issue 16, Summer 2006
“Cervin, Dent Blanche, Weisshorn, du Col Collon au Theodulpass”, Banzhaf, Biiner, Theler, Club Alpin Suisse CAS, 2012
Camptocamp
PlanetMountain
Vertiges Prod
Roger Schäli
Marcel Dettling
Francesco Ratti
Updates
Nov 18, 2020: First version published.
June 20, 2022: Graphical update, redrew most of the lines on the north face with fresh info and to match the new North Face poster.
Feb 7, 2024: Graphic design update
Aug 15, 2025: Graphic design update
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