Horokoau/Mount Tasman - North Face

The north face of Mount Tasman and its many satellites, rising above the Fox glacier, is a true alpine playground, with relatively short routes (by Aoraki standards) at all grades. The main obstacle is usually logistical, from approach (usually a helicopter flight to Chancellor or Pioneer Hut) to glacier travel, as crevasses and bergshrund navigation is often the crux of any climb.

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Route List

1: North Ridge of North Peak, III, 3+, H. Bohny, T. Sidler, 01/1955
2: Northwest Toe, III, 3, R. Dickie, G. Hasell, 1958
3: Haast GT, IV, 4, H. Bohny, T. Sidler, 01/1955
4: North-Middle Peak Col, III, 3, D. Herron, P. Houghton, F. Page, R. Tornquist, 01/1959
5: Middle-High Peak Col, III, 3, J. Pope, H. Porter, 03/1933
6: Citizen Chowdhury, III, 4, D. Chowdhury, B. Kane, 12/1999
7: Mutley's Revenge, III, 4+, C. Cardie, A. Tindall, 07/2010
8: Valentine Gully, III, 4, L. Bowering, D. Langrish, 02/1987
9: Right Gully, III, 3+, M. Andrews, C. Dodge, D. Warren, 12/1972
10: Southwest Ridge of High Peak, II, 3, A. Graham, H. Newton, 02/1907
11: Marcel Col, III, 2
12: East Ridge of Lendenfeld Peak, III, 2, A. Graham, H. Newton, 02/1907
13: Aurora Australis, III, 3, A. Corvini, A. McAuley, 02/1992
14: North Gully, III, 3+, S. Hollaway, A. Thompson, 01/2005
15: Hamilton-Berry Rib, III, 4, A. Berry, N. Hamilton, 12/1955
16: Northwest Couloir of Lendenfeld Peak, III, 3, M. English, P. Hillary, N. Ritchie, 07/1978
17: Northwest Rib of Lendenfeld Peak, III, 4, D. Bamford, J. Nankervis, 02/1977
18: Adventure Philosophy, IV, 4+, M. Waters, A. Uren, 01/2002
19: The Mutant, IV, 6, J. McCartney, A. McFarlane, 1995
20: Direct, IV, 5+, L. Bell, D. Bogie, K. Hyslop, 11/1978
21: Allen-Williams, IV, 5, J. Allen, Z. Williams, 11/1978
22: Southwest Ridge of Lendenfeld Peak, III, 2, A. Graham, H. Newton, 02/1907
23: North Shoulder, IV, 3, M. Kurz, H. Porter, 01/1927
24: Heemskerck Face, Original Route, V, 3+, M. Conway, W. McIlwraith, 12/1972
25: Arapiles, Oh Arapiles, V, 4, M. Roberts, A. Slater, 01/1994
26: North Buttress, V, 4+, A. Berry, N. Hamilton, 12/1955
27: Witches Col, II, 3
28: Son of a Witch, III, 5+, K. Brown, C. Jefferies, 07/2007
29: Centurion, VI, 5+, D. Crow, A. McFarlane, J. Taylor, 06/1994
30: White Jasmine, VI, 4+, D. Bamford, J. Nankervis, 03/1983
31: Elder, VI, 4, 06/1986
32: Original North Face, VI, 4, M. English, M. Jones, 12/1977
33: Nipple Rib, VI, 4+, P. Grover, J. Nankervis, 01/1982
34: Harris-Jones Rib, VI, 4+, G. Harris, M. Jones, 01/1969
35: Stevenson-Dick Couloir, V, 3+, D. Dick, H. Stevenson, 12/1941
36: The Dream of Dutch Sailors, V, 4+, S. Hollaway, D. Thistlewaite, 12/2013
37: Path of Manolin, V, 5, S. Hollaway, F. Landman, 01/2011
38: Torres-Tasman Col, V, 4, R. Rainsbury, J. Visser, 01/1971
39: God's Zone, VI, 6+, C. Jefferies, A. Uren, 07/2004
40: Land Bridge, V, 5, B. Denz, G. Gabites, M. Perry, 08/1977
41: West Ridge, V, 4, L. Cleveland, N. Hamilton, J. Lange, 01/1951
42: Northeast Couloir of Torres Peak, IV, 3+, A. Berry, J.M. Davie, H. Tyndale-Biscoe, I.R. Wood, 01/1954
43: Red Rib, III, 4, A. Abrahams, J. Hough, M. Kirby, C. Schaap, 03/1968
44: Coberger Route, III, 3+, A. Coberger, O. Coberger, 01/1950
45: Northwest Ridge of Torres Peak, III, 3+, A. Graham, H. Newton, E. Teichelmann, 02/1907

Credits and Sources

• “Aoraki Tai Poutini, A Guide for Mountaineers,” Rob Frost, NZAC, 2018
• “Seeking the Light,” Gavin Lang, Potton & Burton, 2022
• “Aoraki Mount Cook, A Guide for Mountaineers,” Alex Palman, NZAC, 2001
• ClimbNZ
• New Zealand Alpine Club