Gogarth - Wen Zawn
Gogarth - Wen Zawn
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Home to one of the UK's most famous routes, A Dream of White Horses (line 83), Wen Zawn has overall better rock quality than the South Stack cliffs (by Gogarth standards, at least), but makes up for it by the sheer outrageousness of its routes, right above the usually raging water. Though many of the routes were put up during the 80s and 90s, there is still active development - see for instance Neanderthal (line 75), an E9 from March 2025, courtesy of Calum Muskett (who also kindly helped draw many of the lines on this poster).
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Route List
1: Pawn, HS 4b, N. Jones, B. Jones, May 1990
2: End Game, VS 4c, A. Newton, J. Peart, 1982
3: The Wrath of Deadly Lampshade, E5 6a/b, A. Hopkins, G. Smith, May 1991
4: Sincerely El Cohen, E3 5c, M. Crook, F. Lowe, Aug. 1986
5: Le Bon Sauveur, E3 5c, J. Redhead, K. Robertson, Aug. 1984
6: Penelope Undercling, E5 6b, M. Crook, D. Kendall, Aug. 1987
7: Not Fade Away, E5 6a, J. Moran, G. Milburn, Oct. 1978
8: Live at the Witch Trials, E6 6b, C. Waddy, Sep. 1988
9: Pulling For Two, E6 6b, M. Turner, L. Thomas, 2005
10: Talking Heads, E2 5b, J. Moran, G. Milburn, A. Evans, S. Horrox, Jul. 1978
11: Nice ‘n Sleazy, E1 5a, A. Evans, G. Milburn, J. Moran, Jul. 1978
12: The Demons of Bosch, E7 6b, J. Redhead, D. Towse, Jun. 1984
13: South Sea Bubble, E3 5c, J. Moran, S. Horrox, A. Evans, G. Milburn, Jul. 1978
14: The Long Run, E5 6a, P. Whillance, R. Parker, D. Armstrong, Sep. 1979
15: The Cad, E6 6a, R. Fawcett, C. Gibb, Sep. 1978
16: The Bells! The Bells!, E7 6b, J. Redhead, C. Shorter, Jun. 1980
17: The Clown, E7 6b, J. Redhead, D. Towse, J. Silvester, Apr. 1984
18: Blue Peter, E4 5c, P. Whillance, D. Armstrong, Sep. 1978
19: Green Gilbert, E1 5a, M. Boater, S. Johnson, R. Perry, 1970
20: Tom's Shredded Slippers, E4 6a, J. Redhead, B. Drury, M. Boater, Jul. 1986
21: Headbutt, E6 6a, N. Dixon, C. Smith, Jul. 1986
22: The Whip, E 5a, D. Scott, B. Palmer, May 1968
23: Birth Trauma, E6 6a, J. Redhead, A. Pollitt, May 1984
24: Wall of Horrors, E2 5b, C. Phillips, N. Horne, May 1970/P. Whillance, D. Armstrong, Aug. 1978
25: The Big Overhang, A3, D. Scott, B. Palmer, Dec. 1967
26: L'Affreuse, A4, D. Williams, J. Williams, Nov. 1982
27: Black Rod, A4, M. Barnicott, C. Remy, Y. Remy, Mar. 1975
28: 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, E3 5c, M. Crook, D. Kendal, Jul. 1987
29: Arachnid, E5 6a, G. Smith, G. Hughes, May 1988
30: Colditz, VS 4c, A. Newton, J. Peart, Sep. 1982
31: Six White Boomers, VS 4c, D. Ferguson, J. McQueen, May 1994
32: Mordor, HVS, J. Brown, D. Alcock, Mar. 1968
33: Seal's Song, E5 6b, S. Haston, C. Bull, May 1988
34: Roof Rack, E7 6c, G. Smith, 1995
35: Hash, HVS 5a, L. E. Holliwell, L. R. Holliwell, Sep. 1969
36: The Dope, HVS 5a, K. Glass, D. Martin, 1981
37: Prom, HVS, J. Brown, B. Fuller, D. Alcock, Apr. 1968
38: Bullitt, HVS 5a, L. E. Holliwell, D. Mossman, L. R. Holliwell, Sep 1969
39: Mustang, VS 4c, T. Taylor, D. Garner, Apr. 1970
40: Kraken, VS 4c, P. James, A. Leary, Apr. 2008
41: Ipso Facto, VS/HVS 4c, M. Howells, B. Whybrow, Feb. 1967
42: Annie's Arch, E2 5b, B. Campbell-Kelly, A. Ferguson, Jun. 1970
43: Ipso Fatso, E1 5b, A. Morley, D. Ferguson, M. Rowlands, Dec. 1997
44: Forgery, E5 6b, C. Waddy, J. Vlasto, Jul. 1989
45: (Will Mawr Gets the) Vulcan Lip Lock, E4 6a, S. Haston, C. Bull, Jun. 1988
46: Genuflex, E2 5b, P. Crew, B. Ingle, Feb. 1967
47: Blowout, E2 5c, M.Wragg, G, Hardhill, Jun. 1977
48: The Boston Struggler, E5 6b, G. Smith, D. Kendall, Jun. 1991
49: Archway, E2 5b, J. Brown, B. Fuller, Sep. 1967
50: Spider's Web, E5 6b, J. Brown, P. Crew, Aug. 1968/G. Smith, T. Bonner, Jun. 1991
51: The Bluebottle, E2 5b, E. Drummond, B. Campbell-Kelly, Aug. 1969
52: Spider Wall, E1 5a, L. E. Holliwell, D. Potts, L. R. Holliwell, Jun. 1969
53: Toiler on the Sea, E2 5b, G. Gibson, D. Beetlestone, Apr. 1980
54: Britomartis, HVS 4c, D. Alcock, G. Rogan, Feb. 1967
55: Vend-T, E2 5b, G. Gibson, Apr. 1980
56: The Sad Cow, E3 6a, C. Waddy, G. Smith, May 1991
57: Gobbler's Arête, E3 6a, B. Wyvill, R. Evans, Sep. 1977
58: The Trap, HVS 4c, D. Alcock, G. Rogan, Feb. 1967
59: Sprung, HVS 5b, D. Howard Jones, J. Brown, Oct. 1978
60: Minute Man, HVS 5a, L. E. Holliwell, L. R. Holliwell, J. Rogers, Aug. 1970
61: Boogie Woogie, VS 4b, C. Phillips, M. Wallis, Aug. 1988
62: Conan the Librarian, E6 6b, J. Dawes, C. Smith. Aug. 1986
63: The Mad Brown, E7 6b, G. Smith, A. Wainwright, Jul. 1996
64: Mister Softy, E6 6b, G. Smith, A. Wainwright, Aug. 1994
65: The Collection Plate, E7 6b, N. Dixon, N. Craine, 1997
66: (It's a) Broad Church, E6/7 6b, N. Dixon, N. Craine, May 1997
67: The Games Climbers Play, E4 5c, D. Pearce, E. Drummond, Sep. 1970
68: Metal Guru/The Golden Bough Finish, E4 6a, S. Long, C. Parkin, Aug. 1989/E. Drummond, C. Dale, 1973
69: T-Rex, E3 5c, E. Drummond, L. E. Holliwell, D. Pearce, J. Rogers, Jun. 1969/P. Littlejohn, 1971
70: Paperback Relic, E6 6b, T. Stone, B. Heason, May 2019
71: Hardback Thesaurus, E7 6b, J. Dawes, B. Drury, May 1988
72: The Games Climbers Play, Original Start, E6 6b, D. Pearce, E. Drummond, Sep. 1970/R. Fawcett, G. Kent, Dec. 1979
73: Rubble, E7 6a, L. McGinley, P. Pritchard, Oct. 1991
74: Lost Time, E2 5c, A. Mason-Powell, J. Mason-Powell, Jul. 2021
75: Neanderthal, E9 6c, C. Muskett, Mar. 2025
76: Rumour, E7 6b, C. Muskett, T. Jepson, Aug. 2023
77: Paperback Writer, E6 6b, C. Muskett, G. Muskett, 2013
78: The Concrete Chimney, HVS 5a, P. Crew, J. Brown, Feb. 1967
79: The Quartz Icicle, E2 5b, E. Drummond, B. Campbell-Kelly, 1968/1969
80: High Pressure, E4 6a, P. Livesey, R. Fawcett, Jul. 1976
81: Wen, HVS 5a, J. Brown, M. Boysen, May 1966
82: Zeus, E2 5b, L. R. Holliwell, L. E. Holliwell, Sep. 1970
83: A Dream of White Horses, HVS 5a, E. Drummond, D. Pearce, Aug. 1968
84: Monday Club Blues, E1 5c, T. O’Rourke et al., 1990
85: Echo Beach, E2 5b, M. Duff, T. Dailey, 1980
86: Dde, HVS 5a, J. Brown, B. Sharp, May 1966
87: Hydrophobia, HVS 5a, C. Jones, S. Hoste, S. Smith, Oct. 1981
88: Microdot, HVS 5a, J. Moran, G. Milburn, Apr. 1978
89: Micron, HVs 5a, 1976
90: Diagonal, VS 4c, J. Brown, D. Alcock, Jan. 1967
91: Perpendicular, VS 4b, A. Evans, J. Moran, Apr. 1978
92: Gazebo, HVS 5a, L. E. Holliwell, L. R. Holliwell, D. Mossman, Dec. 1968
93: Ahriman, HVS 5a, J. Brown, P. Crew, Jan. 1967
94: Drag, E1 5b, L. E. Holliwell, L. R. Holliwell, Dec. 1968
95: Pequod, E3 5c, J. Moran, A. Evans, Apr. 1978
96: Belial, HVS 5a, P. Crew, A. Alveraz, Feb. 1967
97: Sex Lobster, E3 5c, C. Smith, M. Crook, Jul. 1986
98: Small Gut, HVS 5a, J. Brown, D. Alcock, Jan. 1967
99: Rotten Gut, HVs 5a, 1967
100: Big Gut, VS 4c, J. Brown, D. Alcock, Jan. 1967
101: Hombre, E1 5b, J. Brown, I. MacNaught-Davis, May 1967
102: This Year's Model, E3 5c, J. Moran, P. Jewell, Jun. 1978
103: Praetor, E1 5c, J. Brown, I. MacNaught-Davis, May 1967
104: Swastika, E1 5c, L. E. Holliwell, L. R. Holliwell, May 1969
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