Aoraki/Mount Cook - South Face

Incredibly complex, the south and west aspects of Aoraki/Mount Cook offer world class alpine adventures, complete with crevassed glacier travel, hanging seracs, and endless alpine ridges. It is served by the Empress Hut, a spartan shelter which gives access to a true alpine wonderland.

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Route List

1: West Ridge Divide, IV, 3+, H. Ayres, O. Coberger, 02/1951
2: Dingle-Button, II, 3+, R. Button, G. Dingle, 06/1979
3: Heaven's Door, V, 5+, R. Braddock, K. Logan, 01/1983
4: The Curver, V, 6, N. Cradock, T. Sorenson, K. Brown, S. Fortune, L. Clay, R. Kirk, 1979-2013
5: Gunbarrels*, V, 7, B. Denz, P. Herron, M. Judge, 06/1975
6: Left Buttress, VI, 5, G. Dingle, M. Jones, 12/1970
7: Central Gullies, V, 5, B. Denz, P. Gough, E. Kummer, 11/1972
8: Logan's Run, V, 6+, K. Logan, P. Sinclair, 12/1983
9: The Tingler, IV, 6+, D. Fearnley, J. McCallum, 10/1987
10: Right Buttress, V, 5, G. Dingle, N. Sissons, 12/1972
11: Hicks-Dampier Ridge, IV, 3, S. Brookes, J. Cox, M. Edgar-Jones, 01/1938
12: Right Icefields, IV, 4+, M. Browne, K. Woodford, 11/1972
13: Hicks-Dampier Couloir, IV, 4+, S. Sweeney, D. Waugh, 01/1972
14: Fantini-Deignan, V, 4+, T. Dignan, J. Fantini, 01/1987
15: Maori Route, V, 4+, N. Kagan, M. Whetu, 02/1983
16: Lower Earle Ridge, III, 3
17: Empress Icefall, III, 3
18: Earle Ridge, V, 3+, J. Clarke, L. Earle, A. Graham, P. Graham, 03/1909
19: Perry St, V, 4+, M. Perry, T. Streat, 11/1979
20: Summer of '69, V, 4+, R. Coombs, K. Henshall, B. Dawkins, S. Thompson, 12/1969
21: Don't Call Me Dude, III, 5, P. Dickson, 02/1992
22: The Shield, VI, 4+
23: Original Route, V, 4+, P. Barcham, D. Herron, G. McCallum, R. Tornquist, 12/1956
24: West Ridge, IV, 3+, P. Graham, H. Sillem, 03/1906
25: The Creamer, III, 4+, J. Kippax, J. Smith, 01/1990
26: Sweet Dreams, III, 4+, A. Harris, M. Roberts, P. Sinclair, 12/1983
27: Wet Dream, IV, 4+, K. Logan, 02/1983
28: White Dream, IV, 4+, C. Brodie, N. Perry, 12/1980
29: Slovenian Route, V, 4, V. Furlan, 01/1994
30: Aoraki Grand Traverse, V, 3+, F. du Faur, P. Graham, D. Thomson, 01/1913
31: Original Route, VI, 3+, J. McKinnon, J. Milne, R. Stewart, P. Strang, 11/1962
32: Direct, VII, 4, B. Denz, 11/1972
33: The Gates of Steel, VII, 5, B. Denz, N. Perry, 01/1981
34: David and Goliath, VII, 5, P. Aubrey, P. Axford,11/1987
35: Pounamou, VI, 4+, E. Braun-Elwert, M. Schmidt, 10/2011
36: Nerve Runner, VII, 5, N. Cradock, B. Dyson, 12/1987
37: Romeo and Juliet, VI, 4+, L. Clay, A. Palmer, 12/1987
38: Sodom and Gomorrah, V, 5, B. Alder, D. Vass, 11/1988
39: Remembrance, V, 6, B. Dare, 11/2017
40: Hillary Ridge, V, 3, R. Adams, H. Ayres, E. Hillary, M. Sullivan, 01/1948
41: Gledhill Buttress, IV, 5, A. Gledhill, G. Gledhill, 02/1973
42: Terminator, IV, 6, H. Dunn, R. Staszewski, 02/1985
43: Tom and Bill, IV, 4+, A. Daly, B. Wilson, 01/1988
44: Nazomi-Hillary Ridge, R. Adams, H. Ayres, E. Hillary, M. Sullivan, 01/1948
45: Northwest Face of Nazomi, III, 3, F. du Faur, A. Graham, P. Graham, 03/1912

Sources

• “Aoraki Tai Poutini, A Guide for Mountaineers,” Rob Frost, NZAC, 2018
• “Seeking the Light,” Gavin Lang, Potton & Burton, 2022
• “Aoraki Mount Cook, A Guide for Mountaineers,” Alex Palman, NZAC, 2001
• ClimbNZ
• New Zealand Alpine Club
• Planet Mountain
• AAJ
• Ben Dare
  

Updates

May 11, 2026: First version published.