カンマンボロン/Kanmanboron - 大面岩/Ozura Iwa

Nested in the mountains of the Yamanashi Prefecture, not far from Tokyo, the fine-grained granite of Mizugaki is where a lot of the history of trad climbing in Japan was written. Very alpine in character, the cliffs emerge from dense maple and pine forests, and exploration of lesser-trafficked routes often means serious gardening.

One of the most visible features of Mizugaki, Kanmanboron is a 200m tall monolith that saw some of the earliest climbing efforts in the region, in the 1970s, all aid routes. In the past 20 years, however, driven by climbers like Naoya Naito (also the author of the excellent guidebook series for the region), some serious free routes have been added to the face.

Ozura Iwa, meanwhile, suffers from not being as easily visible from the trail, but offers one of the cleanest sweeps of granite of the whole region, and some outstanding multi-pitch testpieces.

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Route List

1: A Wish, 5.13b, 内藤直也/Naoya Naito
2: オリジル/Orizuru, 5.13c, 小野寺賢治/Kenji Onodera
3: Starting, 5.12a A0, 松本吉隆/Yoshitaka Matsumoto
4: The Beautiful Mess, 5.12a, 横山勝, 横山千裕/Katsukata Yokoyama, Chihiro Yokoyama
5: Children's Corner, 5.12c, 横山勝丘/Katsukata Yokoyama
6: はやぶさ/Hayabusa/Falcon, 5.13a, 内藤直也/Naoya Naito
7: Joker, 5.12c, 山下勝弘/Katsuhiro Yamashita
8: 太陽の登/The Sun Climb, 5.12c, 内藤直也/Naoya Naito
9: Happiest You, 5.12c, 内藤直, 松本吉隆/Naoya Naito, Yoshitaka Matsumoto
10: ワイルド・アット・ホーム/Wild at Home, 5.11b, 加藤泰平, 室井登喜男, 梅田茂光/Taihei Kato, Tokio Muroi, Shigemitsu Umetsu
11: 四天王/Four Heavenly Kings, 5.11d, 岡田秀一, 大工秀昇, 萩原絹代, 平山勝美/Okada Hidekazu, Daikushu Nobori, Hagihara Kinuyo, Hirayama Katsumi/甲山哲也, 萩原悟/Kozan Tetsuya, Hagihara Satoru 
12: 左稜線/Saryousen/Left Ridgeline, 5.10c, 梶川敏和, 井上純徳/Toshikazu Kajikawa, Yoshinori Inoue/ 吉川弘, 室井由美子, 室井登喜男, 梅田茂光/Hiroshi Yoshikawa, Yumiko Muroi, Tokio Muroi, Shigemitsu Umeda
13: 大面讃歌/Great Hymn, 5.12a, 甲山哲也/Koyama Tetsuya
14: ニュー・モンタージュ/New Montage, 5.11d, 中尾政樹, 室井登喜男/Masaki Nakao, Tokio Muroi
15: 自由登攀旅行/Free Climbing Trip, 5.13b, 兼原慶太/Keita Kanehara, 2008
16: アイム・オールド・ファッションド/ I'm Old Fashioned, 5.11b, 增本亮, 菊地敏之/Ryo Matsumoto, Toshiyuki Kikuchi, 12/2020
17: フリーウェイ/Freeway, 5.11c, 室井由美子, 吉川弘/Yumiko Muroi, Hiroshi Yoshikawa
18: イクストランへの旅/Journey to Ixtlan, 5.13a, 菊地敏之/Toshiyuki Kikuchi
19: ホットサマー/Hot Summer, 5.11c, 吉川弘, 室井由美子, 室井登喜男/Hiroshi Yoshikawa, Yumiko Muroi, Tokio Muroi
20: コスモス/Cosmos, 5.13a, 内藤直也/Naoya Naito, 09/2012
21: All Along the Watchtower, 5.13a, 增本亮/Ryo Matsumoto
22: 導かれる者/The Guided One, 5.12a, 甲山哲也/Koyama Tetsuya
23: 導かれるままに/Be Guided, 5.11d, 甲山哲也/Koyama Tetsuya
24: Cavitation, 5.12a, 佐久間博臣/Hiroomi Sakuma, 2007
25: ハチの巣左/Beehive Left, 5.11a, 甲山哲也/Koyama Tetsuya
26: ハチの巣右/Beehive Right, 5.11c, 甲山哲也/Koyama Tetsuya
27: 初舞台/Debut Performance, 5.11c, 甲山哲也/Koyama Tetsuya
28: 錦秋カナトコルート/Autumn Anvil, 5.10a, 角屋貴良/南裏健康, 南裏保惠/Takara Kadoya/Takeyasu Minamiura, Yasue Minamiura
29: 山族'79黄昏ルート/Mountain Bandits ‘79 Twilight, 5.10d, 石井秀和, 池田政義, 引間一夫, 黒川洋一, 佐久間博臣/ Hidekazu Ishii, Masayasu Ikeda, Kazuo Hikima, Yoichi Kurokawa, Hiromasa Sakuma
30:  千日の瑠璃/A Thousand Days of Lapis Lazuri, 5.14a R/X, 倉上慶大/Keita Kurakami, 10/2015
31: 一粒の麦/A Grain of Wheat, 5.10c, 澤田実, 角屋良/Minoru Sawada, Takara Kadoya
32: アウトサイダー・スルムケチムニールート/Outsider, 5.9, 角屋貴良, 加藤献/Takara Kadoya, Ken Kato
33: Joyful Moment, 5.9, 佐藤裕介, 恩田真沙美/Yusuke Sato, Masami Onda, 2014
34: 蛸焼同盟/Takoyaki Alliance, 5.10c, 横山勝丘/Katsukata Yokoyama
35: 人生劇場/The Theater of Life, 5.12a, 横山勝丘/Katsukata Yokoyama
36: 微笑街道/Smile Street, 5.12c, 横山勝丘/Katsukata Yokoyama
37: 烏兎匆匆/Uto SouSou, 5.12c, 横山勝丘/Katsukata Yokoyama
38: 山灯花/Mountain Light, 5.12d, 横山勝丘/Katsukata Yokoyama
39: 蒼天攀路/Climbing into the Blue Sky, 5.12a, 横山勝丘/Katsukata Yokoyama

Sources

“Mt. Mizugaki, 瑞牆 クライミングガイド Climbing Guidebook, 上,” 内藤直也, Frontier Spirits, 2nd ed., 2023
“Mt. Mizugaki, 瑞牆 クライミングガイド Climbing Guidebook, 中,” 内藤直也,Frontier Spirits, 2nd ed., 2023
“Mizugaki Climbing Guidebook, English Edition,” Naoya Naito, 1st ed., 2019