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Lhotse - South Face

Lhotse - South Face

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One of the largest alpine walls in the world, the south face of Lhotse towers over the entire trek to Everest Base Camp. Depending how one counts, it has arguably received a single true ascent to the summit, a massive effort by the soviet team of 1990, despite attempts by some of the strongest alpinists of each generation (Messner, Cassin, Gogna, Profit and many others). It has also been the site of many tragedies, including the death of one of the greatest Himalayan climbers of all time, Jerzy Kukuczka of Poland, the second man to climb all 14 8,000 meters peaks, who fell when a fixed line broke near the summit.

This image was shot from the summit of Imja Tse (also known as Island Peak) and, uniquely for Mont Blanc Lines, also shows all attempts on the face instead of just completed routes. The very disputed solo line of Tomo Cesen is also included.

 

Download: Medium resolution, personal use only

Route List

Successful Ascents:
1: Japanese-Korean 2006*, Anh Chi-Young, Lee Choong-jik, Pemba Chorten, O. Tanabe, T. Yamaguchi et al., 12/2006
2: Soviet Pillar 1990, S. Bershov, V. Karatayev, A. Shevchenko et al., 10/1990
3: Korean 2007, Byun Sung-Ho, Mo Sang-Hyun, Pasang Namgyal, Um Hong-Gil et al., 05/2007
4: Czechoslowak 1984, Z. Demján et al., 05/1984
5: Austrian 1970, S. Aeberli, J. Mayerl, R. Walter et al., 05/1970
6: Korean 1989, Kwon Chun-Sik et al., 10/1989


Attempts:
7: Japanese 1973/Cassin-Gogna 1975/Japanese 1976, R. Uchida et al./R. Cassin, A. Gogna et al./R. Uchida et al.
8: Slovenian 1981, F. Kenez, V. Matijevec, P. Podgornik, A. Štremfelj, N. Zaplotnik et al., 05/1981
9: Beghin-Profit 1990, P. Beghin, C. Profit, 10/1990
10: Korean 2007/2014/2017/2019/2022, Hong Sun-Taek et al.
11: Polish 1985/1987/1989, J. Kukuczka† et al., 10/1989
12: International 1989, A. Hajzer, E. Lucas, R. Messner, C. Profit, K. Wielicki et al., 05/1990
13: Japanese 1965, I. Yoshikawa et al., 05/1965


Disputed:
14: Cesen 1990, T. Cesen, 04/1990


 

Sources
  • Lhotse South Face

  • The Wall of Legends,” Edward Morgan, Bee Different Books, 2015

  • Mount Everest Massif,” Jan Kielkowski, Explo, 1993

  • The American Alpine Journal

  • Ed Morgan

  • Lindsay Griffin

  • Alessandro Gogna

Updates

Feb 3, 2023: First version published.

May 24, 2023: Added the successful 2007 Korean ascent to the summit of Lhotse Shar (line 3).

November 12, 2023: Fixed typo on line numbers

May 24, 2024: Graphic design update

Oct 17, 2025: Graphic design update

Feb 23, 2026: Caption update

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