El Capitan - South Face

Entirely redrawn from a massive 2.8 gigapixels image shot last spring, this is the most complete El Cap lines poster ever. It shows 111 routes on the southwest and southeast faces, including the latest (Direct Line, Ephemeron and Neptune) and the most obscure (Turning Point, Central Scrutinizer, Hamas Fights for Freedom, Block Party) as well of course as all the classics (the Nose, Salathe, Free Dawn, Zodiac...). For the first time (to my knowledge), the crazy and never repeated Girdle Traverse is also drawn. Over 195 identifiable features, flakes, ledges, towers and cracks are shown, and every single named pitch or variation (254 in total) is marked as well. It's a monster.

Route List

1: Lurking Fear, 5.6 C2+/5.13c, Bircheff, Bircheff, Pettigrew, 1976/Caldwell, Rodden, 2000

2: Lost World, 5.7 A3, Anderson, Folsom, Warburton, 1975

         A: Squeeze Play var., 5.7 A3, Albuschkat, Corbett, Edmondson, 1982

3: Hole World, 5.9 A4, Kohl, 1990

4: West Buttress, 5.9 A3/5.13c, Kor, Roper, 1963/Caldwell, Rodden, 2003

         A: Grand Traverse, A3/5.13b

5: Octopussy/For Your Eyes Only, 5.9 A3, McDevitt, McDevitt, 1988

         A: The Orange Peel, C2

6: Never Never Land, 5.7 A3, Chapman, Hawkins, 1978

7: Winds of Change, 5.10 A5, Jensen, 1991

         A: Stepping out of the Comfort Zone, A5

         B: This Navel Speaks, A4

8: Aquarian Wall, 5.7 A3, Bridwell, Schmitz, 1971

9: Wings of Steel, 5.10+ A4+, Jensen, Smith, 1982

         A: The Faucet Bivy

         B: The Shower Bivy

10: Horse Chute, 5.8 A3, Burton, Porter, 1974

         A: Horse Play var., A3, Grossman, Harrington, 1984

11: Dihedral Wall, 5.8 A2/5.14a, Baldwin, Cooper, Denny, 1962/Caldwell, 2004

12: Cosmos, 5.7 A4, Dunn, 1972

        A: La Escuela, 5.11b

13: Excalibur, 5.9 A3, Burton, Porter, 1975

14: Bermuda Dunes, 5.10 A4+, Barbella, Schneider, 1984

        A: The Laser Beam, A2

        B: The Guillotine, A4+

        C: Pine Island Bivy

15: Freerider, 5.13a, Huber, 1998

        A: Monster Offwidth, 5.11a

16: Salathé Wall, 5.9 C2/5.13b/c, Frost, Pratt, Robbins, 1961/Piana, Skinner, 1988

        A: Teflon Corner, C1/5.12d

        B: Boulder Problem, 5.13a

        C: Enduro Corner, C2/5.12d

        D: Salathe Roof, C1+/5.12a

17: Pacemaker, 5.9 A4, Barnett, Bosque, Corbett, Siler, 1982

18: Golden Gate, 5.13a, Huber, Reichel, 2000

        A: The Downward Climb, 5.13a

        B: The Move, 5.13a

        C: Chickenwing Chimney, 5.11d

19: Free Heart Route , 5.13c, Earle, Gobright, 2015

        A: The Dub Step, 5.13+

        B: The Brissler Highway, 5.13a

20: The Heart Route, 5.9 A4, Davis, Kroeger, 1970

        A: Sacherer Crack, 5.10a

        B: Golden Desert, A3/5.13a

        C: A5 Traverse, A3+/5.13a

        D: Fat City, A2/5.12a

21: Verano Magico, 5.10 A4, Gallego, Gallego, 1985

22: Son of Heart, 5.8 A3, Sylvester, Wreford-Brown, 1971

        A: Tonsilectomy Traverse, A2+

23: Jolly Roger, 5.11 A5, Cole, Grossman, 1979

         A: Golden Doublon, A5

         B: The Ramp, A4

24: Sunkist, 5.7 A3+, Bard, Price, 1978

25: El Corazón, 5.13b, Huber, Huber, 2001

        A: Roof Traverse, 5.13b

26: Magic Mushroom, 5.7 A3, Burton, Sutton, 1972

27: Free Mushroom, 5.14a, Caldwell, Sjong, 2008

        A: Seven Seas, A2/5.13

28: Dorn Direct, 5.9 A4, Olevsky, Yaniro, 1977

29: Quo Vadis, 5.9 A4+, Czyz, 2002

         A: Miss A5, A3

         B: Almost Genuine Pitch, A3

         C: All Roads Lead to Rome, C2+

         D: Battle Axe Slot, A2/5.10

         E: Multi-Cracks, A4

         F: Lost in the Dark, C2

30: Flight of the Albatross, 5.9 A4, Middendorf, Oxx, 1993

31: The Shield, 5.6 A3/C4, Bocarde, Porter, 1972

32: False Shield, 5.9 A4, Cole, 1984

33: Muir Wall, 5.8 A2+/C4, Chouinard, Herbert, 1965

         A: 8a Traverse, C2+/5.13b

34: Triple Direct, 5.9 C2, Bridwell, Schmitz, 1969

35: Pre-Muir var., 5.13c, Miller, Sjong, 2007

36: The Shaft var., 5.13c, Caldwell, Sagar, 2001

37: Mediterraneo, 5.10 A5, Gallego, Gallego, 1982

38: The Direct, 5.13+, Miller, Rudolf, 2017

         A: The Wraith Pitch, 5.13a

         B: The Gypsy Pitch, 5.12d

         C: The Great Crack, C2/5.12

         D: Speak Friend, 5.12

         E: Balrog , 5.12

         F: White Wizard, 5.13

         G: Black Velvet, 5.12+

         H: Platinum, 5.13a

         I: Hanging Slab, 5.12

         J: Short but Fierce, 5.12

         K: Teahupo’o, 5.13a

39: Turning Point , 5.11 A4+, Grossman, 1984

40: Grape Race, 5.9 A2+, Johnson, Porter, 1975

         A: Teetotaler var., C2

         B: The Great Disgrace var., 5.9 A4+, Blair, Hornibrook, Kay, 2001

41: The Nose, 5.8 C2, Harding, Merry, Whitmore, 1958

         A: The Stovelegs, 5.10b

         B: King Swing, fun

         C: Changing Corners, C2/5.14a

42: The Free Nose, 5.14a, Hill, 1993

         A: Jardine Traverse, 5.12a

         B: Lynn Hill Traverse, 5.12

43: Central Scrutinizer, 5.11c A4+, Grossman, Ladin, 1988

44: Tribal Rite, 5.8 A3+, Bard, Carter, Rosenthal, 1978

         A: RURP Pitch, A3

45: Ephemeron, 5.10 A4, Adams, Wickstrom, 2018

         A: The Pecking Order, A4

         B: The War Front, A3

         C: The Motherlode, A3

         D: Smooth Sailing, A4

         E: Beak’n and Eggs, A3

         F: The Prehistoric Cracks, A2

46: The Competitive Edge (Real Nose), 5.10+ A4, Cole, Grossman, 1984

47: Passage to Freedom, 5.13d, Caldwell, Honnold, 2019

        A: Alfa-Romeo Slab, 5.13d A0

        B: Sideways Dyno, 5.13a

        C: The Tommy Traverse, 5.13b

        D: Paris 2024, 5.13

48: New Dawn, 5.7 A2+/C3+, Porter, 1972

        A: As Good as it Gets, C2/5.13c

        B: Tokyo 2020, C2+/5.12

49: Disorderly Conduct, 5.9 A4+, Groendycke, Hollinger, Smart, 1998

        A: Sure Way to the John Muir Inn

        B: Out on Bail

        C: 30 Days in the Hole

        D: Bad Call Bivy

        E: Double Jeopardy

        F: Run for Your Life

        G: The Sweetness

        H: In Your Face

        I: Freedom for Life

50: Genesis, 5.11 A4, Brand, Englekirk, 1989

        A: The Blade, A4 exp.

        B: The Golden Corner, A4

51: Adrift, 5.10+ A3+, Quinlan, Pritchard, 1995

52: Free Dawn Wall, 5.14d, Caldwell, Jorgeson, 2015

        A: The Molar Traverse, C2+/5.14b

        B: The Loop Pitch, 5.14a

        C: The Dyno, 5.14c

53: Mescalito, 5.7 A2/C3F, Burton, Nelson, Porter, Sutton, 1973

54: Martyr’s Brigade, 5.11 A5, Beyer, 2002

        A: Dry Tooling Move, A4R

55: Reticent Wall, 5.7 A4+, Gerberding, Reddel, Stowe, 1995

56: Wall of Early Morning Light, 5.9 A3, Caldwell, Harding, 1970

        A: Hockey Night in Canada var., A3, Beckham, Flavelle, Lane, 1980

57: Neptune, 5.10 A4, Adams, Wickstrom, 2021

        A: Lateralus, A4

        B: Fear Inoculum, A4

58: Space, 5.10 A4, Cole, 1985

59: South Seas, 5.8 A3+, Price, Row, Thompson, 1979

60: Atlantis, 5.8 A4, Turner, 2005

61: Block Party, 5.9 A4, Turner, 2005

62: Tempest, 5.8 A4+, Hornibrook, Jarrett, Lloyd, 1993

        A: Twisted Sister, A3+

        B: The Pecking Order, A3+

        C: Rubber Band Man, A3

        D: Pillar of the Community, A3+

        E: Badass Geberding, A4

        F: Lazy Day Stance

        G: The Killer Whale, A1

        H: Rain of Terror, A3+

63: Every Man for Himself, 5.9 A4, Bowling, Gerberding, Stowe, 1999

        A: Team Spirit, A3

        B: Man Overboard, A3

        C: You Boys Fishin’, A3

64: Pacific Ocean Wall, 5.9 A3+/C4F, Bridwell, East, Fiske, Westbay, 1975

        A: Nothing Atolls, C3F

        B: Central Latitudes, A3+

        C: Bearing Straights, C1

65: Sea of Dreams, 5.9 A4+, Bard, Bridwell, Diegelman, 1978

        A: Laura Scudders Traverse, A3

        B: Hook or Book, A4

        C: Expanding Anchor

        D: Don’t Skate Mate, A4+

        E: To the Tooth, A2+

        F: The Blue Room, A3

        G: RURP Belay

        H: Ace in Space, A3+

        I: The Price is Light var., A2+

        J: Space Station

        K: Peruvian Flakes, A3+

66: Ring of Fire, 5.10 A5, Jensen, Smith, 1996

        A: Banished Forever, A5

        B: Occam’s Razor, A5

67: North America Wall, 5.8 A3/C4F, Chouinard, Frost, Pratt, Robbins, 1964

        A: Borderline Traverse, 5.8

68: Nightmare on California Street, 5.10 A5, Gardner, Hollinger, 1998

        A: X-Rated

        B: Drive By Shooting, A3+

        C: The Dream is Dead, A4+

        D: Aquaphobia

        E: Border Crossing, A4+

        F: Pacific Coast Highway, A4

        G: Missing Link

        H: The Sky is Falling, A4 rotten

        I: Thou Shalt Not Drill

        J: Moss Landing

        K: Black Hole Sun, A2--

        L: 5th Class

        M: Wide “Fun”

69: Wyoming Sheep Ranch, 5.8 A4, Barbella, Slater, 1984

        A: Welcome to Wyoming, A4

        B: Gumbie’s Gallows, A3+

        C: Sheepalope Bivy

        D: High Boots on a Full Moon Light, A4

        E: Ewe-Phoria, A2

        F: Woolly Box Bivy

        G: Liz is Tight, A3+

        H: Home on the Range, A3

        I: Cyclop’s Eye Direct var., A3+, Bongard, Middendorf, 1989 

70: Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys, 5.9 A4+, Ayad, Bridwell, Hausdoerffer

        A: The Sexx Kitten, PDH

        B: The Bra of Sheila, NBD

        C: Mandatory Metallica, DFU-

71: El Niño, 5.13c, Huber, Huber, 1998

        A: The Black Dike, 5.13a

        B: The Missing Link, 5.13a

        C: Galapagos, A4/5.13b

        D: Man Powered Rappel, A0

        E: Pineapple Express var., 5.13c, Honnold, Trotter, 2018

        F: Slalom, 5.12c

        G: Eismeer, 5.13a

        H: Lucy in a Labrador var., 5.13a, Schneider, 2003

72: Heartland, 5.10 A4+, Barbella, Brand, 1987

        A: Wanted Dead or Alive, A3+

        B: Made in the Shade, A2

        C: The Crest of the Wave, A3

        D: The Dust Bowl, A3+

        E: The Bible Belt, A4

        F: Westward Ho, A3

        G: The Great Plains, A2

73: Continental Drift, 5.10 A4, Anker, Gerberding, Thaw, 1997

        A: Appalachia, A3

        B: Les Voyageurs, A3

        C: Portage, A3-

        D: The Gorak, A3

        E: Work or Play, A3-

        F: Extraordinary Alien, A4 exp.

74: New Jersey Turnpike, 5.10 A4, Bard, Burton, Kauk, Hawkins, 1977

75: Gulf Stream, 5.9 A5, Gerberding, Harpole, Smith, 1999

        A: Stowe Away Pitch, A3

        B: Landing Pad Ledge, A2+/5.9

        C: Little Jay’s Big Pitch, A4+

        D: The Iceberg, A3 exp.

        E: Northwest Passage, A3

76: Atlantic Ocean Wall, 5.9 A4, Barbella, Middendorf, 1985

        A: Bay of Pigs, A2+

        B: Florida Swamps, A3

        C: Former Hourglass Flake, A3+

77: Iron Hawk, 5.9 A4, Bard, Kauk, 1978

        A: Knifeblade Traverse, A4

        B: Iron Son var., 5.9 A4, Jarrett, 1992

78: Hamas Fights for Freedom, 5.9 A5+, Beyer, 2014

        A: Shooting Rockets, No Casualties, 5.9

        B: The Struggle, A3+

        C: Tilted Tombstone, A4+

        D: Nuking Tel Aviv, A4

79: Highway to Hell, 5.9 A5, Barecz, Tivador, 1998

        A: Wing Left Thru, A4+

        B: Exit to Heaven, A4

80: Native Son, 5.9 A4, Johnson, Shipley, 1987

        A: The Coral Sea, A4/5.8R

        B: Who’s Gonna Win the War, A3

        C: Golden Blade var., A3, George, 1997

        D: Corn Flake Corner

        E: The Machine Head Wall, C2

81: Scorched Earth, 5.7 A4, Leavitt, Slater, 1987

        A: Lefebure, A2

        B: Big Brother, C4

        C: Steeper than God, A2

        D: Cape Wild Bivy

        E: Son of Poison Pill, A4 rotten

        F: The Leavittator, A3 5.11 ow

82: Sticky Rice, 5.6 A4, Kim, Lee, 2003

83: Aurora, 5.7 A4, Child, Mayfield, 1981

84: Tangerine Trip, 5.7 A3, Porter, St Croix, 1973

        A: Avatar, C2

85: Virginia, 5.7 A3, Bosque, Clance, 1992

86: Lost in America, 5.10 A4, Child, Leavitt, 1985

        A: Big Country, C1

        B: Badlands, A3 exp.

        C: Beefaroni var., 5.8R A3, Jarrett, 1992

        D: Fly or Die, A3+ 

        E: Place of Dead Roads, A3 

87: Ned’s Excellent Adventure, 5.10 A4+, Hollinger, Law, 1998

        A: McKinley in a Day

        B: Across the Karakoram

        C: The Sea Tomato

        D: Everest Grand Circle

        E: The Silk Road

88: Kaos, 5.7 A4+, Bengston, Gerberding, 1993

89: Zenyatta Mondatta, 5.6 A4/C4F, Bridwell, Mayfield, Row, 1981

        A: Right Ventricle var., A3, Kerrick, Law, 1998

90: The Shortest Straw, 5.7 A3+, Lovelace, 1990

        A: Journey Through the Brain, A3+

        B: Sun and Steel, C3

91: Zodiac, 5.6 A3, Porter, 1972

        A: The Open Book, A2+/5.13c

92: Free Zodiac, 5.13c/d, Huber, Huber, 2003

93: Surgeon General, 5.9 A5, Kohl, Shipley, 1990

        A: Velcro Fly, A4

        B: Fetal Alcohol Syndrome, A4+

        C: Crystal Chandelier

        D: Festering Deformities, A4

        E: Magical Crack, A3+

94: Slacker’s Toil, 5.9 A5, Beyer, 2001

95: Lunar Eclipse, 5.7 A4, Barbella, Schneider, 1982

        A: Left Hand of Darkness, A2+

        B: White Line Fever, A4

        C: Bite the Dike Ramp, A1

        D: The Milky Way, A2

96: Born under a Bad Sign, 5.9 A4+, Price, Washick, 1979

        A: Copper Eclipse, A3

        B: The Amazon, A3

        C: Kamikaze Cracks, A4

        D: Hara Kiri Cracks, A4

97: Plastic Surgery Disaster, 5.8 A5, Kohl, 1991

        A: Scatterbrain, A2+

        B: Trust your Mechanic, A4

        C: Suicidal Failure, A5

98: Bad Seed, 5.9 A4, Johnson, Russell, 1988

        A: Skid Row, A4

        B: Pearl Harbor, A2

        C: Time Bomb, A3

99: The Prophet, 5.13d, Houlding, Pickles, 2010

        A: The Train Wreck, A2/5.12b R

        B: Grit-esque Expando, A2/5.12b R

        C: The Marginal Belay-Not Gay

        D: The Screamer, A4/5.13b R

        E: The Dreamer, A4/5.13b R

        F: The Guillotine, 5.13b R

        G: The Devil’s Dyno, 5.13c R

        H: The Devil Reacharound var., 5.13a R

        I: C1 Beauty, C1/V8 5.13d R

        J: The Final Defense, 5.13b

100: Bad to the Bone, 5.9+ A4, Painkiher, Smith, 1984

101: Secret Passage, 5.13c R, Favresse, Villanueva, 2008

        A: Peach Fuzz, 5.10 R

        B: Seagull Flight, 5.13c

        C: Falcon Dihedral, C2/5.13a

        D: The Eagle’s Bone Trap, 5.12+

        E: The Flying Pigeon, A2+/5.12c

        F: Guillotine Parano, A2+/5.11 R

        G: The Nipple Tickler, 5.12c R

        H: Wild Ride Traverse, A3/5.13a

        I: The Secret Passage, 5.13a

        J: The Da Vinci Code, A4/5.11        

        K: Eviction, A1/5.10+

102: Eagle’s Way, 5.8 A3, Chapman, Orey, 1976

103: On the Waterfront, 5.9 A4, Bosque, Corbett, Schneider, 1986

        A: Ride the Wave, A3

        B: Walk the Plank, A3

104: High Plains Dripper, 5.11 A5, Kohl, Humphrey, 1989

        A: Technical Ecstasy, A5

        B: Toofus Tormentor, A2

        C: Multi-Death Block, A3        

        D: Dish Pan, A3 exp.

        E: Flakey Flix, A3+

105: Pressure Cooker, 5/10 A4*, Kohl, 1992

        A: Panic Zone, A4

        B: 8 Ball Rollin’, A4

106: Get Whacked, 5.10 A5*, Kohl, 1992

107: Chinese Water Torture, 5.11 A4*, McConachie, Smith, 1981

         A: The Funnel, 5.11a

108: Lost in Translation, 5.12, Favresse, Ninov, 2006

109: Dark Star, 5.10 A5, Bridwell, Groaz, 1999

110: East Buttress, 5.10b, Long, Siri, Steck, Unsoeld, 1953

111: Girdle Traverse, 5.10 A4, McNamara, Melvin, 1998

Updates

June 9, 2022: more update to the Cyclop's Eye this time for Nightmare in California Street, thanks to Warren Hollinger!

June 1, 2022: minor updates to the Cyclop's Eye Direct variation to Wyoming Sheep Ranch/Heartland, thanks to John Middendorf for his help!

March 7, 2024: minor graphic update.